To Barby

June 27, 2019

We have really enjoyed Magdeburg and its easy going vibe. It has helped to stay in a centrally located, air conditioned hotel. The wide boulevards and cycle lanes on most sidewalks make it a breeze to cycle around this city. We stayed in Magdeburg 5 years ago, and have appreciated seeing it again and revisiting a few of our favourite haunts like Hunterwasser’s The Green Citadel, his last work before he died. He worked at developing this project up until his death in 2000.

Also, we made a trek to the magnificent Dom, a Gothic masterpiece. The sheer size of this cathedral is impressive, and the extensive artwork, sculptures and stonework warrant a leisurely visit. More to come later

Hunterwasser’s Gruner Citadelle is such fun to visit and explore. Just stopping to enjoy the spectacle of this building reflective of his imagination and creativity is worthwhile. One marvels at his vision of creating a beautiful, funky and functional space of community living and commerce.

A photo of Hunterwasser holding a scale model of the Green Citadel.

A sculpture of Hunterwasser in the courtyard enjoying the fountain.

The funky colourful bird houses suit Hunterwasser’s style.

We both loved the iconic, vibrant coloured porcelain pillars so typical of his work.

Hunterwasser’s style is organic, colourful, functional and whimsical at the same time. Never a square corner. What a contrast from the angular, clean lines of nearby Dessau.

The Green Citadel contains 55 apartments, courtyards that are open to the public with shops and cafes, and a small hotel with 45 rooms.

Hunterwasser wanted to create “an oasis for humanity and nature within a sea of rational houses” at the heart of the “concrete desert” of Magdeburg. This language polarized the citizens of Magdeburg. Construction did not begin until 2004, after his death.

The two steeples of the Dom are over 325 feet tall. For once, Barry was relieved that climbing the towers was not an option due to construction. It is too hot to climb them.

The Magdeburg Cathedral is officially called the Cathedral of Saints Catherine and Maurice. This Protestant Dom has roots going back to 937. The current structure was built over a period of 300 years from 1209.

The large scale of this Cathedral is hard to capture. The height of the ceilings are about 32 metres tall and the length is over 120 metres.

This moving sculpture is rendered more powerful by the quality of light spilling over it from the windows above.

The High Altar has many impressive features. The choir have wonderful carvings and details.

A close up of the carvings in the choir of the high altar which date back to 1363. The carvings shoe the life of Jesus.

St. Maurice, the first realistic depiction of an ethnic African in European art.

St. Catherine, the patron of the cathedral.

The sarcophagus of Emperor Otto I The Great in the High Altar.

Tomb of Queen Editha from the 13th century with amazing carved details.

The Paradise Portal at the north entrance features 10 sculptures. 5 were the foolish maidens...crying and laughing, and 5 were the wise maidens....dating from 1250.

The foolish maidens at the Paradise Portal

Such beautiful door handles with a rich patina from centuries of being used.

This oak carving from 1929 by Ernst Barlach has survived much dispute. Barlach was directed to create a heroic war memorial after WWI, but since he was against war, he showed the pain and suffering of war instead. This created much controversy and this work was almost destroyed.

The alabaster pulpit by Christof Kaputh is spectacular with intricate carvings featuring many biblical stories, such as Noah’s Ark.

The rosy tone of the ceiling is a rare stone from Egypt.

The royal couple, Emperor Otto and Queen Editha from the 13th century. Emperor Otto was responsible for the building of the current cathedral, the largest Gothic cathedral in Germany.

Another door handle in the Cathedral...we liked this owl.

After our hard work of enjoying The Green Citadel and The Cathedral, we ate at a cafe in the Green Citadel.

For the rest of the day we rode through what felt like a ”sea of wheat”. Blue skies and fields like this for as far as the eye could see.

At times, we rode on double tracks like this above the fields

Then we made it to a Barby and found this wonderful inn and stayed across the street in Haus Ursula.

Barry had a yummy steak stuffed with cheese and veggies

Mary Ellen had a tender and juicy schnitzel smothered in roasted, csrmelized onions, roast potatoes and salad. Delicious.

We had a wonderful evening and I think a Barry enjoyed a night off from cooking.

Today's ride: 52 km (32 miles)
Total: 3,023 km (1,877 miles)

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Djurre Van der SchaafDear Mary Ellen & Barry, how nice it is following you on your trip . We met in Gdansk in Villa Stratus. There jou couldn't stay longer then one night unfortunetly. We had a good conversation. We alsof saw you've changed your plans en now following the river Elbe. We hope you have a good journey and enjoy visiting Europe. Maybe some time yn Fryslân.

Kindest Regards,
Djurre & Janke van der Schaaf
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5 years ago

Suzanne GibsonHope those unpleasant welts clear up. It sounds like something Janos had after staying in a not so well-run hotel on our trip on the Romantische Strasse last year, bed bugs. Apparently they can also jump into your bags, too. I read not to put your bags on the floor. Whatever the cause, I wish you a speedy recovery.
Suzanne
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5 years ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Hey Bartletts, we will be cycling past what we take to be your door today! We are off to explore this strange wild place called Saltspring Island. It's fun to think that no matter where exotic travels take us all, it's always just past somebody's back yard!
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5 years ago