Berlin to Buckow - The Bartletts Bike the Baltics - CycleBlaze

May 21, 2019

Berlin to Buckow

We were so relieved to reach our hotel last night as we were chilled and wet through. Riding the final 10 km was like riding our tandem into a swimming pool. The downpour was so heavy that it felt like we were submerged in water. We have ridden in lots of rain storms before, but this was unique. Travelling by bike and being so intimately connected to the weather, we can state with anecdotal confidence that climate change is real. Every year we are increasingly confronted with more extreme weather. Yesterday’s storm was reflective of that. 

The good thing that came of that rather desperate ride was arriving at the charming and delightful Bett and Buch (Bed and Book) Hotel. This family owned hotel and lovingly restored former library from GDR times is a highlight for us in the many hotels we get to visit in our travels. 

Every corner and nook & cranny of this hotel honours the history of this building. Alex, the daughter and manager, made us most welcome and shared the history of this amazing place. Even the reception which is lined with books and the board for room keys feature books and authors of significance to the area.
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Charmaine RuppoltMy brother would LOVE this hotel because he LOVES BOOKS!! :)
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1 year ago
Each room is named for an author. The room key has a likeness of the author, the door features a wooden portrait and in the room is a library of books by the writer.
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The stairs are decorated with wallpaper of the spines of books and actual book covers.
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The building has an amazing history as many events almost led to the its complete demise. First, the drilling and excavation for an expansion to the  bridge across the road weakened the foundation, then a previous owner’s decision to take out walls and add arches without knowing they were load bearing added to the problem, and then the tram rumbling by (wiring connected to the building) was the final straw. There was much interest in buying this lovely old building, but most were afraid to risk it. The family who now own it, made a gamble and it has paid off. Their first discovery when cleaning out the basement was a collection of boxes  filled with books, posters etc that revealed that this was a former library from GDR times. Thus, the theme for a “Bett and Buch” hotel was born. We highly recommend this charming hotel.

These posters were discovered in the boxes and were from the Children’s section. With the posters, they have displayed children’s books that they retrieved from the boxes.
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The cafe in the hotel is appropriately called “Baguette and Buch”.
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Another interesting part of the story is that when they started to clean out the building, they discovered that it was inhabited by families of foxes. Not only did they need to remove the obvious mess of their habitation, they also discovered a large number of shoes. Legend is that mother foxes teach their young to take shoes as a way of teaching hunting skills.
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Our room is dedicated to the beloved writer, Alex Tucholsky. A journalist and author from the 20’s and 30’s. He is known as well for his opposition to Hitler and his regime. As he was of Jewish descent, he had to emigrate to Sweden. His books were forbidden and burned by the Nazis. He died in Sweden in 1936.
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The message of the poster featured here is that at a library, all questions can be answered. Like the other posters on display here, this is a poster from the original library and books from this theme are displayed with it.
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Having a coffee from the cafe of the hotel before setting out. It is a nice morning...could we have imagined the carnage of last night’s storm?
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Charmaine RuppoltGlad the storms passed and gave you a clear day for riding!
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1 year ago
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Sorry for the reflection in this image - this poster features the names of the authors honoured with a room dedicated to them in this hotel. Some of our neighbours were Isabelle Allende, Gabriel Garcia Marquez and Hermann Hesse. We are in good company.
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While we sat in the sun drinking our coffee, we enjoyed seeing these nuns ride by. How do they keep their habits from getting caught in the chain?
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Steve Miller/GrampiesThese nuns are pretty cool. The one ahead s wearing sneakers, the one behind, slippers. Both have shades. I guess that's all pretty normal. But the one behind might just be also sporting an Apple watch. "Street Coach" is a bike brand I don't know.
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5 years ago
Charmaine RuppoltI don't think the nun's habits would get caught in the chain, but their long dresses might!
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1 year ago
Leaving Köpenick, the ride was delightful. We did not expect that the surrounding area of Berlin would be so pretty and natural.
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This man proudly showed the brass marker on the bridge that celebrates his 50th wedding anniversary.
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Stopping to enjoy the view...and yes, we are once again riding in shorts!
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In Erkner we left the route in search of food and we found this tram coming out of a wall instead. Then we found an Edeka and had food as well.
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This Edeka is Erkner is an amazing store with a great cafe and featuring Beelitzer Spargel.
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We are seeing many storks in their nests in this area.
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Charmaine RuppoltThe storks there build very impressive nests!
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1 year ago
Thank you EU and your efforts to make the cycleways rideable in Eastern Europe where rough pavement and cobbles are the norm.
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We love the addition of smooth bricks on the side for bikes with stone cobbles in the centre for cars. Yeah!
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Charmaine RuppoltGreat idea!! Biking over those cobblestones is not fun!
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1 year ago
Barry BartlettTo Charmaine RuppoltThese were particularly nasty.
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1 year ago
Suddenly we heard the excited squeals of this little dog and she was so excited that it looked like she was lame due to the extreme wagging of her tale and back end.
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After jumping up to greet me on the bike, she then ran over to Barry to share some love.
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We have struggled a bit in this region to find accommodation as much of it is fully booked and what is left is pretty expensive. We decided to end our day in Buckow which was a fortunate choice. Buckow is truly charming. We were able to get the last room, a sweet studio suite in the annex of Hotel Burgschlosschen and the price was right including a good breakfast. 

Buckow is located on a lake and is in the beautiful Märkische Schweiz Nature Park. As well, the hotel is perched up high with a great view of the surrounding hills and forest of the Park.  Not having prior knowledge of this incredible Nature Park, we felt lucky to have unwittingly made such a good choice. Being once again cold from the days ride and happily weary, we settled in to our comfortable apt complete with a living room, huge bedroom with ancient beams and a bathroom with a tub big enough to stretch out in.

Life can be so good on the road.

Today's ride: 62 km (39 miles)
Total: 1,311 km (814 miles)

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