We have so enjoyed our stay in Marlbork. Visiting the Castle here is one of the highlights of our experiences like this in Europe.
Staying a second night has given us time to reflect on the conundrum that is Poland for us. We like it here, we enjoy the shy yet welcoming people, we love the breakfasts, we feel privileged to ride through their communities and rural areas and see how they live, but we need a break from the rough roads, cobbles, hard drops from sidewalks, sandy paths and fast drivers. There is so rarely a shoulder to escape to. So, we feel that we have made the right decision in changing our plans and heading to Sweden for the rest of our time, with Germany at the finish, of course. When we toured in Poland a few years ago, we don’t recall it being so difficult. Maybe it’s the passage of time, maybe we have forgotten, or we are just older. Nonetheless, we think that the roads were a bit better in that region..
Today’s ride has confirmed for us that we have made the right decision.
As the reviews said, Hotel Dedal is better than it looks on the outside. This Soviet era concrete block building is pretty rough on the exterior, the parking lot is a jumble and the gardens are neglected-however, inside it has been revamped and the staff are great.
Riding through Marlbork on a farewell tour, we got a chance to once again see this impressive 8 metre high sculpted painting of Mary on the church steeple at the castle.
So many school groups are here on field trips and most of the boys were buying toy weapons like this. The teacher in Barry wondered at the wisdom of kids buying weapons in the middle of a field trip.
Since Chelmno, we have been seeing huge groups of kids on field trips. We have learned that in June, it is traditional for Polish students to travel enmass to local sites of interest.
Well, our euphoria disappeared once we left Marlbork. We are trying to get to EV9, the Amber Route which originates in Gdansk. On paper, it looks good, we will follow a secondary road for 14 km and then follow the Amber route. The first 14 km were a “ride of terror” as we had to share the narrow 2 lane road with no shoulder and a constant succession of freight trucks. It was a white knuckle ride. We were often forced to pull off or do our best to stay on the bike as the wind created by the trucks either tried to blow us off the road or suck us into their airstream. At times the big trucks came so close we could almost touch them and they go so fast! We both recognized that we would never ride on a road like this at home, but here, we have no choice. It doesn’t help, that it is stinking hot at 34 degrees.. Well, enough whining. We did feel badly for an older couple who were also riding in the opposite direction. They had pulled over and looked shell shocked. He had a fresh bandage on his face. We gave them a supportive thumbs up and wished them well.
You may wonder why we would choose this road....the reality is that you either choose rough cobbled/sandy paths or you choose a secondary road and hope for the best. Also, in this area, most of the small roads do not seem to go in a straight course or connect.
We were very surprised to find a section of cobble on this highway. Granted it only lasted for maybe 200 m, but imagine the bumps and wear and tear on a vehicle at the insane speed cars and trucks were going. We finally finished the “white knuckle 14 km road of terror” and were eagerly looking for the connection with the Eurovelo 9 route to head north to Gdansk. But oh no, it was clearly unridable for us as we could see that it was deep sand and we would be pushing the bike. So we pressed on, but this time on less busy secondary roads with the usual challenges of unpredictable surface and crazy drivers...but at least we felt safer. The fortunate part of this detour was that we started following a local cycle way called the Mennonite Way. About 300 years ago, Mennonites emigrated from Holland to this area of Poland due to religious persecution. As well, in Canada, there are large communities of Mennonites in BC and Ontario.
This was a pleasant surprise to find ourselves on this route.
And just when we were having fun, it all went south. We couldn’t find the turn to take us on to Gdansk...and that is because there is no road. We followed a narrow dirt track through fields and then came upon cement tracks through farmer’s fields. They look good from a distance, but the breaks between the blocks and the holes in the blocks caused a steady succession of bumps. Poor Seavo and poor Barry and his unhappy back.
We are literally at a crossroads - which way should we go. Confusingly, there are signs on each corner telling us to go each way. At this point, the Garmin GPS was clearly overwhelmed and the batteries died and the phone could not pick up cellular. So, we used Barry’s sense of direction and plowed on.
Cora ReitzGeorg and I agree with you. We rode this kind of tracks several times in eastern parts of Germany, in the former GDR, some years ago. Whichever kind of bike you are riding this kind of surface will shake you through and through and will drive you crazy when you have to follow such a path for some kilometres. It is indeed much worse than it looks in this picture. We try to avoid those whenever possible. Reply to this comment 5 years ago
Just as we were trying to find a positive perspective in our unending ride over these slabs...”at least there are no cars”...well, you guessed it, cars do use this track. It is considered a road, and they go fast! Yikes.
When we came around the corner, knowing that Gdansk is now only about 10 km away, we came upon this. The route ends and a new bridge is being built, so we will cross this somewhat rickety bridge.Is someone playing a prank on us? After all, it is hot in the 30’s and we could use a dip.
We only had about 10 km to go through farmland and industrial areas and we made it to Gdansk. We got a glimpse of some incredible architecture and can’t wait to explore tomorrow. The construction and lack of cycle friendly roads made it challenging, but at this point, we are getting good at this type of thing. The final push of the day was to go uphill to where our Hotel is located. It is located in a quiet neighbourhood and looks lovely.
It was only a 56 km day but we both feel like we have ridden twice that. Combined with 30+temperatures and really tough, bone shaking riding, we are pretty done in. A cold shower and an even colder beer is in order..
Today's ride: 56 km (35 miles) Total: 2,035 km (1,264 miles)
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Keith ClassenGlad you made it safe and sound. The joys of traveling by bike in foreign lands! Makes me think of a phrase from our 7 year old on a boat trip up the Intracoastal waterway which wasn’t going well. Stinking hot weather, engine problems, dingy delamination and our 7 year old says “Dad.... did we want to do this trip?” Reply to this comment 5 years ago
Suzanne GibsonSounds like a really rough day! Glad you made it safe to your hotel. Sweden sounds like a good decision after your wonderful but tiring adventures in Poland. A bit of smooth sailing would be good now! Reply to this comment 5 years ago
