That Phanom

October 14, 2024

A late start today. The bicycles had been locked away and we could only retrieve them when the receptionist came on duty at seven o'clock. Then we had to look for some breakfast, which ended up being pork satays and sticky rice with a coconut doughball to round it off. This was enjoyed on the banks of the Mekong.

The Second Friendship Bridge as we approached it on the riverside road heading north from Mukdahan,

The first hour or so was not too hot given the late start. We are approaching the end of the north-east monsoon so headwinds are pretty much a given. In the first few hours of the morning this helps keep us cool but as the day heats up it is only a hindrance.

We made a few detours to look at various things along the way. This is Wat Mano Phirom is an old temple built by Vientiane architects, about fifteen kilometers north of Mukdahan.

It was only nine thirty by the time we stopped for a substantial second breakfast of krapow moo (ผัดกะเพรา). It's one of our Thai favourites consisting of minced pork fried with holy basil, garlic and chillies topped off with fish sauce.

A bit further on we came upon a Catholic church quite different from most others. I had read about Our Lady of The Martyrs of Thailand yesterday so I was keen to have a decko. From the outside it looks nothing like a church and the interior configuration differs from most Catholic churches in that the crucifixion scene is off to the side while a depiction of the resurrection commands the central point behind the alter.

Photo taken through the glass doors because the church was locked.

As the day heated up (35 feels like 41, according to the weather forecast) and the headwind increased, the going got a bit tougher and we were relieved when we arrived in That Phanom.

The celebrations are in full swing here too and the area around Wat Phra That Phanom was heaving with people enjoying the build up to the end of the Buddhist Lent. The festivities also involve decorative boats on the river (apparently no racing), although that is scheduled for tomorrow night, with traditional dances happening near the temple this evening. The upshot is that accomodation is hard to come by. We've got a room at a rather pricey hotel for tonight and have paid double the usual rate for tomorrow night in Nakhom Phanom. Hopefully things will return to normal thereafter.

Late in the afternoon we cycled back to the wat to take some photos but finally decided we need to return in the morning to get the best light. Wat Phra That Phanom is one of the most important Buddhist temples in that it is supposed to contain the breastbone of the Buddha.

Apart from the statues of the Buddha, there were many of venerated monks and bodhisattvas.

The Buddha on a Naga, quite relevant next to the Mekong.

Wat Phra That Phanom's most obvious feature is the beautiful chedi around which worshipers parambulate.

Then we headed back to the river for supper. "This is the life" said Leigh. "That's not what you were thinking at eleven o'clock this morning" was my reply.

It will be another late start tomorrow what with revisiting the wat and with the hotel breakfast only being served from six thirty. The ride to Nakhom Phanom is going to be another hot one.

Today's ride: 58 km (36 miles)
Total: 969 km (602 miles)

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