Nakhom Phanom - The sixteenth step ... From Bác Hồ to กรุงเทพมหานคร - CycleBlaze

October 15, 2024

Nakhom Phanom

I apologize for posting far too many photos today but, in my defence, there was a lot going on.

We were at the wat by six o'clock this morning to catch the first rays of the sun hitting the chedi.

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Worshippers at the chedi.
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Monks doing their morning begging.
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Then it was back to the hotel where we filled ourselves up on what was, by usual Thai hotel standards, a really good breakfast.  Despite the late opening of the breakfast buffet we were on the road soon after seven.

We weren't yet out of town when we spotted this enormous Buddha overlooking the river.
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The first ten kilometers were along the riverbank but then we were spat out onto highway 212.

Makeshift pulley systems to haul goods up from the river to the road are powered by old motorcycles.
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The 212 wasn't too bad.   Four lanes with an excellent shoulder.  The speed limit varies from sixty to ninety kilometers per hour depending on the type of vehicle but most vehicles were driving even slower than that.  After thirty five kilometers of the 212 we finally found an escape route, probably twenty kilometers after we should  have.

Nice country roads for the last section. Leigh is cycling on the wrong side of the road to make best use of the shade.
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About five kilometers from Nakhom Phanom we ran into three "ex-pats" sitting in the shade at a  wat.  We stopped and had a long natter with them.  Martyn and Martin originally from the UK and Pete from New Zealand.  They have all lived in Thailand for many years, Martin for eighteen if I recall  correctly.  They have a daily cycle together Mondays to Fridays. When the conversation became racist and xenophobic with respect to immigrants to their own original countries we felt it was time to cycle the last few kilometers to Nakhom Phanom.  I suspect the irony of where they now live was lost on  them.  Isn't it strange that folk from the so-called developed world living in middle and low income countries are referred to as ex-pats while people from the developing world who move to the wealthier countries are called immigrants ?

When we arrived in Nakhom Phanom we discovered that the boat races were in fact happening.   The celebrations apparently go on for nine days and the races were being held today.  We could only check in to our hotel at two o'clock so we bought some lunch from one of the many vendors and sat down to enjoy the festivities. 

Martyn and Martin caught up with us at the boat races.
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While waiting for the boats we had a various birds perching on a tree in front of us. This one's a Scaly-breasted Munia (Lonchura punctulata).
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The red boat was behind when they first came into view but slowly caught up to the green boat.
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And then pulled ahead.
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Finally winning by at least a length.
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Once  checked in and showered,  we headed off to a laundry nearby.  Fifteen minutes into the washing cycle the machine started spewing water all over the floor so the manager had to hurriedly move our clothes to another machine and mop up the floor.

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A thunderstorm started developing late in the afternoon but that didn't stop us cycling back to the river to watch the evening light on Laos across the river.

The storm across the Mekong in Laos.
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This is where the mountains start in Laos.
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Looking back up the street to our hotel. The setting sun and the storm combining well.
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Not sure where we will be tomorrow.   It all depends on where we can find accomodation. 

Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 1,032 km (641 miles)

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Andrea BrownComplete agreement with you on your immigrants/expats observation.
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