October 17, 2024
Na Khae
We had intended to head to Ban Phaeng today but ended up stopping in a quiet little village ten kilometers before the town. It was a good way to end a mostly relaxed day spent on country roads that had one truly uplifting experience balanced by another very sobering one.
At about nine o'clock, after about thirty five kilometers, it was time for second breakfast. We were passing through a little village called Nong Thao when we spied what we thought was a restaurant. Google Maps also said it was a restaurant. So we sat ourselves down and were suddenly overwhelmed by the attention of a crowd of older folk. We managed to explain that we could do with some rice and pork. Two plates of rice and a bowl of pork in the a delicious broth of mushrooms, galangal and chillies arrived. We tucked in but this didn't deter the onlookers, who crowded around us, chattering away. When I tried to pay for the meal no-one wanted to accept payment and the crowd called out "No money, no money!". I was led inside to a shrine. And then we realized we had gate-crashed an end of Lent celebration.
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We cycled away unable to stop ourselves from chuckling at our stupidity and lack of awareness while feeling humbled by the kindness of the village folk. The good feelings ended abruptly about two kilometers further down the road when we came upon a police vehicle with lights flashing parked next a small body covered by a blanket.
Our digs for the night is a very simple, in the strictest sense of the word, cabin next to the Mekong. The big plus is that there is no-one else here and the village itself is like a ghost town. It's lovely!
Tomorrow we head away from the river towards Phu Langka National Park.
Today's ride: 62 km (39 miles)
Total: 1,136 km (705 miles)
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