Layover in Savannakhet

October 12, 2024

Laos itself is quite different to Vietnam and the differences are clear the moment one crosses the border, the most obvious being that it is poorer and scruffier but also more relaxed. Interestingly, most of the advertising hordings along the road had their messages emblazoned in both Lao and Vietnamese. This changed once we reached Savannakhet where instead of the restaurants advertising Bún Bò Huế they were offering Pad Thai and หมูกรอบ (hmu krxb, which sounds something like moo krarp and means crispy pork). In fact, our guesthouse was expecting payment in Thai Baht.

The other difference is the weather. Much warmer and dryer.

First business of the day was to cycle down to the Mekong River which we last saw seven years ago.

Thailand and the city of Mukdahan on the opposite side of the Mekong.

Pa Tong Go, a standard first breakfast for us in Thailand. Often served with a pandan coconut custard.

The riverfront was full of stalls and decorations suggesting some big celebration was on the go. I asked a Buddhist monk who was busy at a shrine what it was all about. No common language but I worked out it has something to do with boat races.

It turns out that it is in preparation for the boat racing festival, called Boun Suang Heua, Boun Xuang Heua or Loy Krathong, which is celebrated at the end of Buddhist Lent, especially in Laos but also in many other Buddhist countries.

Here in Laos spectacular canoe races are apparently organized in the cities and villages along the Mekong. Boats are decorated with flowers and candles. Also, small rafts made of bamboo and decorated with candles are launched down the streams and river. Unfortunately it seems that the races in Savannakhet will only be held in two weeks time.

The race has existed for thousands of years but today's races are essentially a social, sporting and commercial event. The races are associated with the Naga, the protective river spirits of Vientiane, which, according to Laotian beliefs, carry away the rice paddies and return them back to the water.

We were surprised to pick up some street art not something we would have expected in Laos.

After it had cooled off sufficiently in the evening we took a ride down to the waterfront. Although the boat races are still some way away, a festival atmosphere has already taken hold. There's no denying the commercial side to the occasion with everything from motor car promotions to church fair type stalls to funfair rides and live music streched out along the riverside. The rallying cry seems to be "Get your wares out!".

Tomorrow is a short hop over the border to Mukdahan in Thailand.

Today's ride: 6 km (4 miles)
Total: 888 km (551 miles)

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Andrea BrownWe haven't been to Savannakhet since 2008 or 2009, but we really loved it then. Very beautiful old colonial buildings that gave the town some real Luang Prabang-like potential.
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1 week ago

Jean-Marc StrydomTo Andrea BrownWe were here briefly in 2016. It seems a more prosperous now. Lots of motor car sales outlets and modern supermarkets. The old French buildings around the church in the central area are thankfully still there.
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1 week ago