March 31, 2012
Day 35: To Marfa
40F overnight, at 5200 feet elevation. The temperature rose quickly after the sun rose above Skyline Drive at 8:15. It was past 10 when I got away from the park. I'm not going far today.
On the way out of the park I snapped a picture of a Javalina while in motion. They always run away if I stop.
It was mostly downhill from the campground to Fort Davis. I stopped for breakfast #2 at the natural foods store in Fort Davis.
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I didn't take any pictures between Fort Davis and Marfa. I was going into the sun and the desert was unremarkable. 21 straight miles with a downhill trend. I passed two huge warehouse-sized greenhouses that seem to be sealed up like terrariums. I wonder how they keep them from getting too hot during summer?
Marfa has recently become an artist community. It's very different compared to when I first passed through during a bike tour in 1991. Now it's somewhat more thriving and much more hip. Many once-vacant buildings have been converted to art studios.
Before the artists came, Marfa's main claim to fame was that the El Paisano hotel was the headquarters for filming the classic 1955 movie Giant. The hotel still plays up that history. You can rent the Elizabeth Taylor suite or the Rock Hudson suite. But their most requested accommodation is the plain room used by an unknown young actor named James Dean.
Marfa definitely has Mexican influences. Many buildings are adobe and many houses have walled yards like in Mexico.
The artists' various buildings are interesting to look at.
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The two motels in the middle of town were full. I got a room at the Riata Motel on the east edge of town. $80. I didn't check at El Paisano hotel, but it was probably full and more expensive.
Today had a high of 85F with sunny skies. It was nice to escape the afternoon heat in an air-conditioned room. I'm still at high elevation, 4685 feet. But from here I go south to lower elevation where it will be much hotter. Maybe too hot to camp.
My original plan was to take back roads south from Marfa to Chinati hot spring. It would include 20+ miles of dirt roads. But it would be too hot for camping without shade, and the hot spring isn't very appealing when it's 95F. So I will abort the hot spring detour and simply take scenic US 67 south to Presidio.
Distance: 36.7 mi. (58.7 km)
Climbing: 620 ft. (188 m)
Average Speed: 11.6 mph (18.6 km/h)
Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 1,853 miles (2,982 km)
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8 months ago