Day 34: Touring Fort Davis

March 30, 2012

I didn't sleep well in the morning because of loud traffic, dogs, and pedestrians nearby. 45F overnight, but it warmed quickly in the sunny morning.

After packing up I went north 1 mile to Fort Davis National Historic Site which is one of the best-preserved frontier army forts in the U.S. It's in a beautiful box canyon at the foot of the Davis mountains.

Officer's quarters at Fort Davis National Historic Site.

In the 1880's and 1890's Fort Davis housed African-American "Buffalo Soldiers". The commander was the first African-American graduate of the U.S. Military Academy at West Point.

Junior officer's quarters at Fort Davis.

After walking around the fort I continued north another mile, then turned west on highway 118, the main highway through the Davis mountains. But after only 3 gentle uphill miles I turned left into Davis Mountains State Park. I arrived in late morning and paid a $6 entry fee. The park ranger didn't seem to believe me when I mentioned that state parks in most other states do NOT charge an entry fee for cyclists.

I left my panniers at the park entry station and pedaled the unloaded bike up the steep grade of Skyline Drive which climbs 500 feet above the valley. I took many pictures. In the distance I could see 3 telescope domes at the McDonald observatory. And I could see the Indian Lodge in the state park.

The Davis mountains were formed by volcanic eruptions 35 million years ago. They are darker and more rounded than the Guadalupe mountains which are uplifted sedimentary rock.

Telephoto view of McDonald observatory from the Skyline Drive overlook at Davis Mountains State Park.

Telephoto view of Indian Lodge from Skyline Drive at Davis Mountains State Park.

Overview of Davis Mountains State Park from the Skyline Drive overlook.

Davis mountains panorama. Indian Lodge upper left. McDonald observatory upper right. The distant pointy peak is 8382-foot Mt. Livermore.

Back in the valley I retrieved my panniers and paid $15 for a tent site.

In the afternoon I had intended to pedal 19 miles up the mountain to visit McDonald observatory. But laziness got the best of me. I've been there once before, so it's not a compelling attraction. Instead I just sat around the park and rested.

I went farther up the park road to look around the Indian Lodge. The lodge was built in 1934-1936 by the Civilian Conservation Corps using mostly "found" materials. It originally had only 18 guest rooms, but it has since been expanded and a swimming pool was added. It's an interesting place. Mostly full of old retirees because it's too expensive for most families.

Indian Lodge at Davis Mountains State Park.

Swimming pool at the Indian Lodge. Skyline Drive switchbacks visible in the upper middle.

Today was sunnier and much warmer than yesterday. High of 85F with very little cooling wind. Shade was hard to find in the park because the oak trees were mostly bare. Sunny areas had swarms of black flies, but I didn't get bit.

Javalinas started to roam through the campground at sunset, so I hung my food pannier from a tree. I heard javalinas rustling all night long.

No Verizon service in the campground, but I had weak service near the entrance to the Indian Lodge.

Distance: 13.0 mi. (20.8 km)

Climbing: 965 ft. (292 m)

Average Speed: 8.8 mph (14.1 km/h)

Today's ride: 13 miles (21 km)
Total: 1,816 miles (2,923 km)

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