On To Sweden: Helsingborg, Sweden (July 13, 2023)

July 13, 2023

With a visit to the Louisiana Museum of Art

Copenhagen to Elsinore to Helsingborg via short ferry ride.

We got organized and left our flat at 10:15 am with our ultimate destination being Helsingborg, Sweden. The weather report at 9:30 am was that the rain would stop at 10:15 am and stay away until 3 pm so we thought we would be fine for the day. We didn’t even make it 6 km to our identified coffee place for breakfast when we encountered a major thunderstorm, replete with lightening. (Good thing we weren't riding in the open, on metallic e-bikes!) As a result we were soaked coming into this tiny coffee place but cheered up with an excellent sourdough bun and latte. FYI, the bread in Denmark is excellent, plus they usually serve it warm, which unfortunately is encouraging us to eat more bread than we usually do.

Next to us at coffee was a super interesting woman - Lena - who is an artist who works in theatre. She had travelled all over the world working at various theatres, and recently moved back to Copenhagen to take a teaching position training four students (for three years) in theatre production. It is a government funded position. I bet there’s not any similar positions like that in the US! While we were visiting she sketched this drawing and gave it to us. We made her sign it so when she becomes famous we can say we knew her!

We're now proud owners of an original Lena!

The thunderstorm cleared and we got back on the road until another storm came through. This time our safe haven was under a thick canopy of trees which we shared with another person caught in the rain. Fortunately, it cleared quickly which seems to be the pattern of summer rainstorms in this part of the world.

Before boarding the ferry to Helsingborg we rode to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, which was wonderful. It sits right on the ocean and the exhibits and sculpture garden are fascinating. There was one about Africa, which spoke to us as we had been in Africa in 2018. Several times in this exhibit we saw references to Denmark’s contribution to and participation in the slave trade. It also noted that Denmark has never formally apologized, which was put down to the fact that it is a close US ally.

Maasai basket weaving techniques were used to recreate a portion of an expansive cave system, located in Kenya's Great Rift, which was used in the slave trade.

That's a live actor in this installation, perilously edging his way across the ledge. Why? Something about how we live on the edge, I think.

The "diving board" passes through a window.

There was also a large multi-faceted exhibit by Ragnar Kjartannson, an Icelandic artist. There was an exhibition about the Danish colonization of Iceland and the mistreatment Icelanders felt regarding certain Danish policies. Yet another reason to travel abroad; being exposed to issues we never would have seen otherwise. We also had a good lunch at the cafe, an unusual cabbage and hummus salad which hit the spot.

Before ferrying over to Helsingborg we did a quick circumnavigation of Kronborg Castle outside of Elsinore. It was the setting for Hamlet. We then headed out to the ferry terminal for the short 20 minute trip across the bay to Helsingborg, Sweden.

HAMLET: What make you at Elsinore? ROSENCRANTZ: To visit you, my lord, no other occasion. – William Shakespeare. Hamlet, Act 2, Scene 2.

Dave successfully managed to purchase tickets from the terminal's ticket machine (There were no onsite personnel from whom he could ask questions.) but we had a bit of work figuring out where exactly to board the ferry. When Dave bought the tickets, walk on passengers were being allowed to board, but there was no information on where we cyclists were supposed to go and none of the signage was in English. It worked out in the end and we scooted on with 1 and a half minutes to spare. After we boarded a man on a road bike loaded with very little bike-packing gear came in after us. He was Johannes, a veterinarian from Helsingborg who was completing an 800 km in three day ride from Amsterdam to Helsingborg. We felt quite put in our place. He rode from dawn to dusk everyday and then wild-camped.

Johannes and Jill comparing touring notes.

Disembarking : Welcome to Helsingborg and to Sweden.

Fortunately, since it was quite late, our hotel was near the terminal in Helsingborg. We checked in and had tapas at a Spanish restaurant across the street from our hotel. A really pleasant day and, hey, we like cycle touring.

Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 465 km (289 miles)

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