November 23, 2023
Santa Maria di Leuca to Otranto
Spectacular coastline
Happy 94th birthday, Mom! I’m sorry you’ve got COVID. Not a great way to celebrate.
The pouring rain continued overnight. I am so lucky to have biked in good weather yesterday. The forecasts said it would stop at some point this morning, and I had my fingers crossed. But there was a brief heavy shower while I sat in the beautiful breakfast room at Villa Pedaci enjoying my multi-course meal. It was fine that I only had snacks for dinner last night, because this house may offer the best B&B breakfast in Italy. There was the usual sweet stuff, fruit, and yogurt, plus cheeses, meats, bread, and homemade sweet and savoury tarts and homemade cookies. I particularly enjoyed a small potato and cheese creation. I couldn’t make much of a dent in what was on the table. But I was offered plastic bags to take away what I wanted. Too bad it was wet this morning, because there is a huge terrace off the breakfast room to eat outdoors in good weather.
I lingered to let the worst of the showers pass, then finally donned my rain gear and packed up for a drizzly departure. Rain was on and off for about the first 90 minutes of the ride. I started out my ride through an area of country properties and small farms, and dropped to the coast just at the north end of the road closure due to bridge work.
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1 year ago
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The Adriatic coast is so different than what I’d seen over the past few days. Gone were the cheap looking resorts. This is the glitzy side, with big ocean-view properties. But there did seem to be regular people around too. There were open restaurants and real towns. I stopped in one town for a cappuccino and tiny tuna sandwich.
Walking down the wet steps of the coffee bar, I managed to drop my heavy bike. I lost my balance trying to save it, and fell on top of it, right onto the messy chain and sharp chain ring. Ouch. multiple people jumped up to help me, but the only real injury was to my pride.
Riding in the rain isn’t my favourite, and I was mighty annoyed at both my hike-a-bike misadventure and falling over my bike, so I played the “name five good things” game, and it wasn’t hard to come up with them:
- The views were spectacular - both the rocky shore I was riding along and I could see a silhouette of the mountains in Albania at one point
- I had just eaten a fabulous breakfast and was carrying homemade treats for later
- I was warm
- My bike was working well and it causes me zero aches and pains
- There was almost no traffic
After a bit more riding, I passed through the town of Santa Cesarea Terme, which is renowned for its thermal baths. But I was most intrigued by the pools built into the shoreline where people can access the ocean. They must be amazing to sit in on a hot summer day. But today the waves were crashing over the stairs and pools, and they looked like death traps.
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I did a quick walking tour of Otranto in the late afternoon darkness. My apartment in has a full kitchen, so I decided to take advantage and made myself a big salad for dinner. I do miss cooking my own food when I’m away.
Observation of the day: the bathrooms in my rental accommodations have been spotlessly clean and very new. But I’m bewildered by the condition of public toilets. Even nice cafes with clean toilets often have toilets without seats. But the weirdest thing is that in the past couple of days I’ve noticed two cafes where the men’s room had a seat, but the ladies room didn’t. Both had new fixtures, so I don’t think it’s a matter of the seat having been broken. I don’t buy the explanation I read online that the seats break from people squatting on them. In China, I believe it (and I’ve seen the footprints on the seats!) But not in Italy in 2023. Anyone else know why they leave the seat off ladies toilets?
Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 1,054 km (655 miles)
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Looks like a great ride in spite of the rain.
Hope your mom's OK!
1 year ago
I’ve been taking notes on your trip in preparation for us doing a similar trip next spring. Thanks for mentioning the names of the place you’re staying. It’s super helpful!
1 year ago