Locorotondo to Porto Cesareo

November 20, 2023

Back to the coast

It was a warm morning and I had a blue sky to start the day. I shed a layer soon after departing my great little apartment in Locorotondo. The only downside was a lame breakfast of packaged cornetto, juice, and an apple from my bag. I hoped I’d pass a grocery store on my exit from town, but didn’t.

It was a glorious first 15 km on a bike trail, the Ciclovia Acquadotto Pugliese, following the route of a 20th century aqueduct constructed to bring water to Puglia from the neighbouring Campania region. The aqueduct is still in use, and I was biking on its service road. I’d say that the surface was concrete with gravel on top. Or maybe just hard packed gravel. In any case, it was nice and firm. For anyone familiar with the Georgian Trail in Ontario, it was a similar surface, easily rideable on any type of bike. Unlike the Georgian Trail, it was dotted with vineyards and trulli. But the GT does have orchards and views of Georgian Bay, and that’s pretty darn nice too.

I spend most of the day on very quiet roads. It was just me, the tiny trucks, and farm equipment. The middle bit of my ride was definitely not tourist country. I saw lots of olives and other farming.

The only hairy bits were passing through two towns, with their narrow streets and tough navigation. It was sunny, and I had a hard time seeing the screen for those quick turns. At least the towns provided a grocery store to stop for my long overdue yogurt and some lunch supplies.

Although today was the longest bike day of the trip, it was on a downhill gradient pretty much all day, so it didn’t seem too gruelling.

And there were a lot more trulli to see. This property looked abandoned.

i enjoyed roads like this for most of the day. Thanks to Komoot for the route guidance today.

It’s not easy navigating Italian towns, with their narrow streets and impatient drivers.

Poof. No more limestone, no more trulli, no more stone fences. I’m in the land of iron-rich soil.

Once I left the Itria Valley and its trulli, some of the housing developments were not all that attractive. I suppose it’s just too hot and dry here for much landscaping. And effort goes into the interior rather than exterior of homes.

A huge field of fennel. Almost ready to harvest, I think. Or maybe they let it go to seed and harvest that?

The final 10 km or so of the ride were near the coast. I saw lots of shuttered resorts and houses. But things picked up as I got closer to the centre of town. My apartment is right on the waterfront. I think I’m the only person in the building. My bike is on the ground floor, parked inside in a rack with a collection of rental townie bikes. The main door is brand new today - I watched the workmen install it as I waited for my hostess to arrive. The new door is locked, but the key is in it. (!) I locked my bike to the rack, just in case someone else notices the key.

This bit of trail was a bit rougher, but still rideable.

I had dinner at a nearby restaurant recommended by my hostess. I had very good spaghetti chock full of sea creatures. The restaurant was almost full. All Germans, from the sound of the place.

Observation of the day. It seems that highway and trail projects here often forget to include a budget for maintenance. Where there’s a shoulder on the road, it’s often overgrown and the pavement has been damaged by plant growth. In this case, the information sign has seen better days.

There’s rain in the forecast. My days of easy cycling in the sun seem to be coming to an end.

Today's ride: 87 km (54 miles)
Total: 914 km (568 miles)

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