Isola Rossa to Porto Torres

November 1, 2023

‘Posthudorra’ in Sardinian

Happy All Saints’ Day for those who celebrate.

Sue said it was noisy overnight, but I had a great sleep. I was really tired.

We were the only people at breakfast, which started at 8. We enjoyed a delicious spread. Meat, cheese, bread and cornettos (croissants) still warm from the oven, and decaf coffee for me. Impressive for a place with few guests that is shutting down today.

When we went to leave, there was good new and bad news. Sue’s tire was still fully inflated. But I realized that I‘d lost my rear view mirror. It’s probably in the hotel office, which is closed today for the holiday. Oh well. There are worse things I could lose.

It was a grey morning, but blissfully calm, wind-wise. There’s a possibility of rain today, but just showers. I made a quick visit to the north end of the town to see the red granite island that gives Isola Rossa its name. Then we faced the 200 m vertical climb, which wasn’t too awful in the end. And it felt great to have the biggest climb of the day over with.

Having completed our big ascent, we descended on a rural road back to ocean level. Komoot routed us through a vineyard trail that got sandy in places, and had us pushing for a bit.

Looking down after our post breakfast climb.

Through the vineyard. The vines are looking sad this time of year.

For most of the rest of the day, we were in view of the ocean. We even saw a few other bike tourers today. At one point, we were in view of two people heading in our direction, and two heading the other way.

For a short time, we rode through cultivated fields of cabbage and what my phone tells me are cardoons - a big leafy plant related to artichokes.

Before long were in the town of Valledoria and stopped to get some groceries for lunch.

Then we enjoyed the best coffee of the trip at the town of La Ciaccia. We stuck with coffee, although pre-noon booze was being consumed by other patrons.

Then it was time to bike and walk up a burly hill and down another equally burly hill. Good thing we both have bikes that can handle a bit of off-road time.

Once we were back on the provincial highway, we had a gentle climb, and passed our first nuraghe. We had to be content to view it from the highway, because it was fenced off. What’s a nuraghe? Wikipedia says: It is the main type of ancient megalithic edifice found in Sardinia, developed between 1900 and 730 B.C. Today it has come to be the symbol of Sardinia. Modern theories about their use have included social, military, religious, or astronomical roles, as furnaces, or as tombs. Although the question has long been contentious among scholars, the modern consensus is that they were built as defensible homesites, and that included barns and silos

At the top of the climb, there was a surprise tunnel. We’re both equipped with decent lights, but it was still pretty dark.

The tunnel marked our last summit of the day. A nice downhill glide took us back towards the ocean. We knowingly took an off-road trail and hoped for the best. It soon ended in a fence. Oops. A nice local fellow confirmed our phones’ suggestions to go up and around instead of just down. Not the end of the world - it was only a 300 m diversion. We pushed our way up and around.

There was some walking. Why do hills never look as steep as they felt?

A nuraghe. There are thousands of them on Sardinia.

Heading into our first tunnel of the trip.

Once back down on the seaside provincial highway, we breezed along through a stone pine forest enjoying the lack of hills, and then stopped at a roadside pullout and walked down some stairs for a picnic lunch by the sea. The granite of Isola Rossa has given way to sandstone here.

There was a fabulous cycle track trail into Porto Torres, right down to the marina. We had time for a seaside beer before getting into our B&B.

These beaches must be stupidly busy in the summer. But there’s hardly anyone here now.

Our first choice of restaurant was open this afternoon but was locked up tight tonight. Instead, we both enjoyed fabulous seafood pasta for dinner at a busy restaurant on the town piazza. My choice was clams and bottarga, and Sue’s was mixed seafood. It was fun to be in a busy restaurant with loads of local people. The pizzaiolo (pizza chef) was doing a booming business. It was fun to see him in action at his oven.

Today's ride: 62 km (39 miles)
Total: 255 km (158 miles)

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