Day 4: Pagosa Springs to Chama, across the Divide again

June 1, 2019

I had breakfast once again at the Rose cafe, on the road at 8:40. The weather was already sunny and warm and the day starts with a 1000 foot climb.

Traffic was relatively heavy on US 84 going south. The shoulder was too narrow to be usable until I crossed into New Mexico.

Today I saw several barns. I saw few barns during this tour.

The only red barns I saw during this tour.

Today I wrap around the west side of the San Juan mountains. Big mountains were to my left all day long, but I couldn't always see them.

Today has no named summit but has 3 big climbs of nearly 1000 feet each, then a gentle 600 foot climb at the end. No services at all between Pagosa Springs and Chama.

Looking ahead (into the sun) at the San Juan mountains.

Much of today's first climb was along the tiny Blanco river. Quite small, and it doesn't appear to be white. The subsequent climbs were not along streams.

I pedaled a few miles upstream along the Blanco river.

Crossing the Blanco river on a narrow bridge.

I was surprised to see farms and remains of farms on today's route The high elevation valleys are not very productive for farming because they are covered by snow 6 months per year.

Barns are a rare sight during this tour.

High temperature of 75F (24C) today. Very pleasant, and the south headwind was not very strong. The afternoon was cloudier than the morning but it never threatened to rain until late afternoon.

The San Juan mountains were to my left all day.

Surprisingly, US 84 does not have a Welcome to New Mexico sign at the state line. I took a picture of the Colorado sign instead.

There is no *Welcome to New Mexico* sign where US 84 crosses into New Mexico.

Looking north from near the Continental Divide.

The Continental Divide is a few miles into New Mexico on a totally unremarkable hilltop. Barely perceptible as a major drainage divide.

This divide crossing is a minor hilltop. 2218 meters elevation.

Strangely, it was mostly uphill from the Continental Divide to Chama. Chama is 600 feet higher than the divide.

I pedaled through a few miles of light rain east of the divide but was almost dry again by the time I arrived in Chama.

I arrived in Chama at 5:05 PM and went straight to the Branding Iron motel because I thought it might rain again. The room is fairly nice, but expensive at $130 with no fridge, microwave, or breakfast.

I was cold and tired when I arrived, but no muscle aches. So I peeled off the damp clothes and got in bed for an hour until I felt warm.

Dinner was at High Country restaurant, with live entertainment from a very good singer and guitar player. She sang old school country songs by Patsy Cline and The Judds. On the way out I learned that she is only 14 years old.

Amazing 14 year old singer at High Country restaurant in Chama, New Mexico.

Chama is a small town, population 998, but it has several motels and restaurants because it's the main tourist gateway for the Cumbres & Toltec narrow gauge railroad.

It seems that I am finally adapted to the elevation. I slept well both nights in Pagosa Springs and the elevation didn't bother me today. Once again it helped that there were no grades steeper than 6%.

Distance: 53.5 mi. (85.6 km)
Ascent/Descent: +3313/-2546 ft. (+1010/-776 m)
Average Speed: 8.6 mph (13.8 km/h)

Today's ride: 54 miles (87 km)
Total: 152 miles (245 km)

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