Day 2: South Fork to Pagosa Springs, Wolf Creek pass

May 30, 2019

In the morning I ate oatmeal at the motel breakfast room, then went across the street to the mini mart to eat a breakfast burrito now and get a biscuit sandwich to go. I have a big climb today and there are no services.

On the road at 8:40. It was sunny and surprisingly warm considering that the low was 31F. It helped to go uphill all morning. That keeps me warm.

Looking back towards the town of South Fork.

The town of South Fork is located where the South Fork Rio Grande flows out of the San Juan mountains and into the San Luis valley. The South Fork Rio Grande flows into the main stream a couple miles downstream from town.

Today's ride starts where the valley narrows into a canyon. US 160 follows the South Fork Rio Grande upstream for several gentle miles, then climbs steeply to Wolf Creek pass.

Cliffs and waterfalls as I enter a canyon.

The canyon gets gradually more forested as I climb. I like the transition from high desert to forested mountains. It's even better when there is massive snow melt in the mountains above. During the morning I could hear falling water most of the time from the river or from the many creeks bringing snow melt down to the river.

I took the gated old road around the first tunnel. I had that road to myself and it has a good view of the river.

I took the old road around the first tunnel.

The grade was quite gentle along the river. But eventually the road climbs above the river at 3-5% grade with occasional 6%. Colorado's mountain highways are famously well graded.

Eventually US 160 climbs far above, then away from the river.

I started seeing snow up close at around 9500 feet elevation, halfway from South Fork to the pass. I pedaled through more snow today than any other day of the tour.

At high elevation the mature trees are all dead, killed by pine beetles. The biggest trees are dead but the smaller trees are still alive. Pine beetles prefer mature trees.

Climbing into the snow zone above 9500 feet. Most of the mature trees appear to be dead.

I had no choice but to bike through the second tunnel. It has a decent shoulder, good lighting, and relatively low traffic. Not bad.

Snow appeared to be very deep for the last mile to Wolf Creek pass. The Wolf Creek pass ski area had almost enough snow to be open.

Wolf Creek ski area had a lot of snow on May 30.

I was surprised that the Wolf Creek pass sign doesn't mention that it's the Continental Divide. I came up the South Fork Rio Grande which flows to the Gulf of Mexico (Atlantic ocean). I will go down the San Juan river which flows to the Colorado river and the Sea of Cortez (Pacific ocean). This is the highest point of the tour but merely the 18th highest paved pass in Colorado.

Highest point of the tour, 3310 meters elevation.

Ideally the highest point would be later in the tour when I'm more adjusted to the altitude. Fortunately the climb wasn't difficult. The exertion level was low enough that the altitude didn't bother me very much. I was tired at the summit-it was a 2600 foot (793 m) climb. But not miserable. It helped that the weather was dry, not super windy, and not super cold, about 55F (13C).

The top of the descent has a continuously unfolding view of snow-capped mountains.

The descent from Wolf Creek pass to Pagosa Springs is one of the most scenic descents I've ever done, with continuously unfolding spectacular views of craggy snow-capped peaks.

This is an extremely long descent, from 10,816 feet to 7126 feet in Pagosa Springs.

It's a big 3700 foot (1128 m) descent, with two runaway truck ramps. The first runaway truck ramp was still covered in deep snow. The second runaway truck ramp is pictured below.

View of the final big switchbacks. Runaway truck ramp #2 on the right.

I stopped at the overlook on a hairpin turn just past the runaway truck ramp. It was gated because a large section of railings were destroyed by a landslide. There is no space to park a car outside the gate, so I had the big overlook to myself.

Great view from an overlook that was closed due to extensive railing damage.

Near the bottom of the descent I stopped at the Treasure Falls trailhead to hike the busy 1/4 mile trail which ascends 200 feet to the base of the waterfall. The trail goes all the way to the plunge pool but there is too much spray there to take a photo.

Treasure Falls was a fun little diversion that I didn't know about in advance. It kind of reminds me of being back in the the Pacific Northwest, except the northwest has far fewer aspens.

Treasure Falls from the end of the 1/4 mile trail. You can go much closer, into the spray zone.

Budding aspens and San Juan mountains from the Treasure Falls trail.

The sky became much darker after I left Treasure Falls for the final few miles to Pagosa Springs. It looked like it might rain but there were only a few drops.

Looking back at the mountains I just crossed.

East of Pagosa Springs I finally have views of the San Juan river. I saw the river farther downstream during both of my Indian Country bike tours. Now I see it near the headwaters.

San Juan river, San Juan mountains, and US 160 east of Pagosa Springs. A storm is brewing.

I arrived at Pagosa Springs at 4:45 and got my room at Healing Waters. $180 for two nights. It's an old-school hot spring spa with gender segregated bath houses. They also have a swimming pool but it's closed this week for repairs. My room was discounted because the pool is closed.

The temperature was 65F when I arrived in Pagosa Springs. Warmest it's been so far. I didn't wander around town very much because I will have all day tomorrow to see it. I did snap a couple photos of the river walk area which is the main attraction in town.

San Juan river, river walk, and downtown Pagosa Springs.

Dinner was at the Mexican restaurant overlooking the river and hot springs resort. I am not staying at the fancy new hot spring resort called The Springs. It costs more than twice as much as my dilapidated old motel room at Healing Waters.

Riverwalk across from the main hot spring resort.

I felt surprisingly good when I arrived. Maybe it's just psychological. I completed the highest pass of the tour and have a rest day tomorrow. That takes away any feelings of dread. And compared to yesterday I had better weather, better scenery, and a more interesting destination.

I was on US 160 all day. It has moderate traffic. Many tourists and a few trucks, but most of it has a good paved shoulder. There are some canyon sections with no shoulder but the steepest part has a climbing lane. It's not a perfect bike route but it's pretty good overall.

In the evening I spent time at the Healing Waters bath house. The men's hot pool is 112F (44C), far too hot for me. I was able to get in for a couple minutes but spent most of my time in the steam sauna which was about 100F with a noticeable sulfur smell. The bath house is open 8 AM to 10 PM. After 10 I walked over to the Hippie Dip for a soak. That pool was 105F, a little hotter than I prefer but still soakable. It's under the stars, next to the river. A more appealing soak than the enclosed bath house at Healing Waters. I was surprised to have the pool to myself.

Pagosa Springs is 7126 feet elevation, more than 1000 feet lower than South Fork. Hopefully the elevation won't bother me here.

Distance: 44.2 mi. (70.7 km)
Ascent/Descent: +2905/-4008 ft. (+886/-1222 m)
Average Speed: 8.6 mph (13.8 km/h)

Today's ride: 44 miles (71 km)
Total: 98 miles (158 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	0
Comment on this entry	Comment	0