Day 13: Angel Fire to Questa, Bobcat pass

June 10, 2019

I got up at 6 AM to have breakfast with the Boy Scouts. It was nice to have a hot breakfast of scrambled eggs, sausage, and hash browns after so many nights in motels with no breakfast. After breakfast I went back to bed until 8 AM.

Today is unusually cold and windy. The overnight low was 33F (1C). At least the strong wind is a south tailwind. I goofed around and finally got on the road at 9:50, bundled up despite the tailwind and occasional sunshine.

The road is mostly flat in a big high valley between Angel Fire and Eagle Nest. The miles were fast and easy thanks to the strong tailwind. The towns sort of sprawl together. To my left are partial views of the Sangre de Cristo mountains in between the clouds.

2 miles north of Angel Fire NM 434 ends at US 64. Traffic on US 64 is noticeably heavier, with long distance trucks. The wide shoulder makes it safe for cycling but it's not serene. Fortunately I only pedal 10 easy miles on US 64.

Looking west at the Sangre de Cristo mountains I will cross today.

The valley has no trees so I have 360 degree views of the surrounding mountains. I could see Eagle Nest miles before I arrived. Eagle Nest is not thriving. Late Monday morning all the stores were closed except for the gas station. Most tourists simply drive through Eagle Nest on the way to Red River or Angel Fire. I stopped to rest on the deck of a closed restaurant and finally started to feel warm sitting in the hazy sun.

Looking northeast at the town of Eagle Nest ahead.

In Eagle Nest I turn off semi-busy US 64 onto NM 38 which is narrower and has very little traffic. I'm starting to climb the Sangre de Cristo mountains but the grade is gentle at first as the mountains gradually close in on the valley.

The east side of the Sangre de Cristo mountains is nearly all privately owned land, with fences and No Trespassing signs. The land doesn't appear to be significantly degraded but it has a different character compared to the public land on the west side of the mountains.

This ranch has a dragon bridge across the creek.

The weather was very gray but at least it wasn't threatening to rain. I could see the nearby mountains but the snowy high peaks were mostly hidden by clouds.

Looking back, east, towards Eagle Nest. The east side of the mountains is mostly privately owned land.

The first half of the climb to Bobcat Pass is 1-3% grade. The grade becomes steeper about when I enter the forested zone at 9000 feet (2744 m) elevation.

NM 38 is a good cycling road. Low traffic, mostly cars, no trucks. The total climb from Eagle Nest to Bobcat Pass is a reasonable 1600 feet (488 m) in this direction.

It looks like the track below might be the original wagon road.

The grade is steepest for about the last mile, 6-8%. It was hard work. The temperature was only 55F (13C) but I didn't put on a jacket because I don't want to get sweaty. It worked out pretty well. I managed to reach the summit with clothes only slightly damp.

Steep climb through aspens near Bobcat pass.

Bobcat Pass is not very scenic. Just a big hilltop cut in the forest. No mountain views. I was surprised to see a snowmobile rental business at the pass.

Scenic or not, I vividly remember pedaling Bobcat pass in the same direction in September 1988. It was warmer and sunnier then. It was my first independent bike tour and the first high mountain pass I ever pedaled. I didn't go higher until 10 years later!

2994 meters. Highest of 3 crossings of the Sangre de Cristo mountains.

On the west side of Bobcat Pass I promptly enter Carson National Forest. It's nice to be back in public land.

The west side of the mountains is mostly public land.

The top part of the descent has very rough pavement. The pavement freezes and thaws nearly every night of the year and rocks fall onto the pavement in some places.

The climb and descent are in canyons, not on ridge lines. Consequently there are few views of the high snowy peaks. The best views are looking down, not up.

A peek of snow during the descent from Bobcat Pass.

There were some good views descending to the town of Red River. It's a cute little town, highest town on my route at 8800 feet (2683 m) elevation. It's a full service ski and summer resort and would be a good place for a cyclist to spend the night. But I need to continue on to Questa even though it's a less interesting destination.

I pedaled through Red River in September 1988 and skied there once before that. But I don't know the town very well. Today I stopped to take a couple of pictures but that's it. If it was warmer I would have stopped for ice cream.

The town of Red River is 8800 feet elevation, a ski and summer resort.

The route is mostly downhill in a rocky canyon from Red River to Questa (elevation 7461 feet, 2275 meters). It was fun and I could feel the temperature rise as I descended. That was probably more because of fewer clouds than lower elevation, but the two are related because high elevations are usually cloudier.

Red river downstream from the town of Red River.

The Red river does look kind of red and it's flowing full with snow melt. There are several National Forest campgrounds and picnic areas along the Red River. I passed the Junebug campground where I camped in 1988.

The temperature climbed to about 70F (21C) by the time I got to Questa. Now I'm back in the high desert sagebrush zone.

NM 28 exiting the canyon 2 miles from Questa.

I arrived in Questa at 4:05 PM. Not bad after the late start. My room at Sangre de Cristo Inn has a fridge, microwave, and LCD TV and cost only $108 for 2 nights.

The motel is a good value but Questa is a dreary town. Population is 1751 but it seems much smaller. All 3 restaurants are closed today, Monday. For dinner I bought a couple of frozen dinners at the small supermarket with barely functioning lights.

I just did 3 consecutive mountainous days and need a rest before the long day to Fort Garland. I try to schedule rest days at places that have something interesting to experience. My other 3 rest locations are very interesting but Questa is not very interesting or charming.

Distance: 34.0 mi. (54.4 km)
Ascent/Descent: +2280/-3089 ft. (+695/-942 m)
Average Speed: 9.3 mph (14.9 km/h)

Today's ride: 45 miles (72 km)
Total: 469 miles (755 km)

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