Day 12: Mora to Angel Fire, high valleys

June 9, 2019

Today promises to be a good touring day. Moderate distance, moderate climbing, and now I go north with a tailwind and the sun on my back. Mora is the southernmost point of the tour.

I left the motel at 7:35, going east into town to find breakfast. Both restaurants were closed. Hatcha's Cafe opens at 9 AM but I won't wait that long. I backtracked to the Allsup's convenience store and had their fry cook make two breakfast burritos. One for now, one for the road. There are no services on today's route.

There is a Catholic church in Mora but this valley was never controlled by New Spain. Instead, the many small Protestant churches give Mora an Anglo bible belt character. The Mexican land grant was issued in 1835 but New Mexico has been under U.S. control since 1846 when the U.S. seized half of Mexico's territory by military force.

Mora is not a charming town. It's just a run-down strip along NM 518. I had never seen a county courthouse in trailers. Part of my negative impression of Mora may be due to the timing of my visit. It's a working farm and ranch town. The town was dead on Saturday evening and Sunday morning but is probably more lively on weekdays.

The Mora county courthouse is 4 double trailers connected together.

In downtown Mora I turned north onto NM 434. It crosses the Mora river and is instantly in a rural farm valley. NM 434 is a state highway but looks like a country lane with grass growing to the edge of the pavement.

The valley is beautiful, with big mountains all around. The farms and structures look very old. The valley from Mora to Guadalupita is the heart of the 1836 Mora land grant.

NM 434 in a high valley surrounded by mountains.

I went off the highway a bit to look at an interesting country church in the middle of nowhere. Maybe there was a village here once?

Church in the middle of nowhere. No village nearby.

NM 434 is a narrow low traffic road. It goes upstream in the valley to the village of Guadalupita, then climbs more steeply in a narrow winding canyon. Mora is 7200 feet (2195 m) elevation. Today's summit is 8815 feet (2688 m) elevation.

While eating the first burrito at the store, several motorists warned me about the narrow and winding mountain climb between Mora and Angel Fire. Today is Sunday and there is a lot of recreational traffic on the road. Many pickup trucks towing boats, and pickup trucks towing 5th wheel trailers. Nearly all the traffic went the opposite direction, towards Albuquerque. That's good because the traffic isn't in my lane. But I had to watch out for big vehicles occupying the entire road on switchback turns in the canyon.

Newly rebuilt segment climbing alongside Coyote creek.

The climb through the canyon is very close to Coyote creek. It's not very big but I could hear it nearly all the time. A rare treat thanks to exceptionally large snow melt.

Most of NM 434 is narrow and winding with no paint.

Today has a moderate amount of climbing but also has the steepest grades of the tour. One pitch with 9% grade, then a longer 10% grade. Finally a 12% grade topping out at the 8815 foot (2688 m) summit. Once again there was no summit sign.

After the big mountain climb is a mere 400 foot descent. Angel Fire is in a very high valley.

I enjoyed a strong south tailwind but the temperature is much cooler than yesterday. High of only 70F (21C) today, with the usual pattern of building clouds in the afternoon. No afternoon sprinkles today.

The valley north of the mountain has a very different character from the rural farm valley on the south side. Angel Fire is a large planned resort community with subdivisions, condos, golf course, ski area, fishing lake, mountain bike park, etc. Far more prosperous and leisure oriented than Mora.

The golf course at Angel Fire is probably covered by snow 6 months per year.

Angel Fire is 8413 feet (2565 m) elevation, the highest overnight destination of this tour. My only overnight stay at a ski resort. Good thing I'm adapted to the elevation now.

Tonight I'm at Elkhorn Lodge in the middle of Angel Fire. The location is good next door to the supermarket and a pizza pub. I arrived at 2:45 and was able to get my room right away. The $120 price is kind of high but includes a hot breakfast. I never saw the manager until morning. My room key was taped to the office door in an envelope with my name on it. I probably wasn't supposed to, but I carried my bike up the inside stairway to my room. The lodge resembles ski condos more than a motel. My 2nd floor balcony has a view of the ski mountain.

I took a 1.5 hour nap, then had an excellent Green Chile Carbonara next door at Angel Fired Pizza. Tonight I'm living the resort life with gourmet food and craft beer. I had dinner at the bar and enjoyed a conversation with a guy who works at the mountain bike park.

A Boy Scout troop from Louisiana is staying at the lodge. Scrambled eggs, sausage, and potatoes will be served at 6 AM by request of the scouts. They are about to start a backpacking trip at nearby Philmont Scout Ranch.

Distance: 38.2 mi. (61 km)
Ascent/Descent: +2359/-1246 ft. (+719/-380 m)
Average Speed: 8.4 mph (13.4 km/h)

Today's ride: 38 miles (61 km)
Total: 424 miles (682 km)

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