July 2, 2024
T'is a gift to be simple
Day Four: Archbold to Shipshewana
We got started fairly early again; about 8:15 am. It was in the low 60s and the sun was shining bright.
The roads leading out of Archbold were flat and quiet, at least the secondary roads on our route. (At some intersections, traffic went whizzing by at highway speeds.) The first seven or eight miles flew by quickly.
And then there were hills. These were not big climbs, just noticeable bumps close together as on a roller coaster. That’s how it began. Soon enough the bumps were real hills, still spaced pretty close together. The game in this terrain is to build up enough steam to shoot up the next hill with as little effort as possible. When you hit it right—the hills are spaced just right and you are pedaling fast enough—it’s fun. Most of the time, you find yourself gasping to the top. All the time, it is hard work.
Indiana, though, amped up the challenge. Crossing the state line, we found several miles of rocky dirt road. We passed several Amish homesteads whose inhabitants glared at us, yards of howling and snarling hounds and 18-wheeler trucks steaming over the hills with loads of … I don’t know what.
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Mercifully, the gravel roads gave way to pavement after several slowt, pounding miles. And then there just the hills to contend with and, as we got closer to Shipshewana, more Amish and Mennonite folk on the roads—in horse-drawn carriages, wagons and on bikes of every type.
Where horses go, poop remains. The roads were dotted with it. However, the real danger comes from cars. We encountered courteous drivers, of course. But far too many speed down these country roads at high speed (like home). Thankfully traffic was very light all day.
Still, we were particularly disturbed by the way impatient drivers would zoom up behind Amish carriages, swerve to the other side and rocket past the horse and buggy. It’s a wonder none of the horses got spooked. Perhaps there is some kind of resentment of the Amish among other local residents?
We saw a lot of this aggressive driving while seated in the pavilion at Lucy’s Vedie Twist ice cream stand. ( I have no idea what Vedie means.) The place is worth the trip. Their ice cream rivals any of the best places at home, but the price! … $3 for a “small” cup/cone. My mother, who tracked ice cream prices every place she visited, would have approved.
The ice cream powered us over the last 12 miles or so to the Blue Gate Inn in Shipshewana where we cleaned up and had a fried chicken dinner with all the trimmings, plus pie.
Shipshewana is an interesting community. It’s built up around the Amish population and draws lots of tourists. Therefore, the main strip is lined with giant hotels, restaurants, trinket and furniture shops, a flea market and auction, etc. It has the sheen of Disney World, albeit with a beard and bonnet. The Amish might live apart from mainstream society, but they are still enmeshed in it. Consider: The hotel we stayed at also has a concert hall. Tomorrow night Lyle Lovett plays here; in August, the Red Hot Chili Peppers!
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Listen: Simple Gifts by Atwater-Donnelly (for Billy)
Today's ride: 75 miles (121 km)
Total: 222 miles (357 km)
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