Our time in downtown Merida turned out to be very pleasant, and it helped to forget the fairly tough traffic conditions we braved to get to the centre. But in the back of my mind I was worried about getting out of the city.
We started off on a good note, finding the second main downtown church now open. So there was a chance for a quick peek inside.
We came to a roadside fruit stand that had very nice stuff. This included containers of cut up pineapple, papaya, and melon that was top quality. When we pulled these out around lunch time we found that out packages also included a fork and a little envelope of granola.
We stopped at a roadside fruit stand, and got this fruit still life.
Things got a lot tougher as we approached the ring road. In that area there is American style development, including several of the big chains. There were also a number of turning circles that for a bicycle are really meat grinders. We did manage to sneak under the ring road, but soon encountered another type of problem. On a big road, entry and exit ramps are always trouble, because the cyclist suddenly find traffic on the right, entering the motorway, or cutting from the left, to exit. At the overpasses, if we were to continue straight over, there would be traffic crossing us from the left. But if we stayed down and kept right, would we lose our route?
The choice was made for us, it turns out, by signs saying no bikes on the overpass. It was ok, though, because it was easy to make our way back onto the main road after the overpass.
At the ring road, Merida looks a lot like Seattle. There is even a Costco.
The tourist maps identify several thematic routes around Yucatan. There is the Culture Route, the Archeology Route, the Flamingo route, the Mangrove Adventure, the Emerald Coast, Cenote route, the Puuc (region south of Merida). Right now we are heading for the Emerald Coast, but we are still hoping to spot some Flamingos and Mangroves!
The Emerald Coast is the stretch along the Gulf of Mexico. See the Flamingo symbols? We hope to see some!
This is a governor's election coming up in February, so there are a fair number of posters around. Sahui is the party of the PRI, which I think is, or was, the right wing corrupt party. It is certainly obvious from the number of posters that Sahui is outspending everyone else.
Somehow I mistrust this guy. Maybe 'cause he's from the PRI.
Have a look here for a little more on the election.
Because we had a little time, and because this is the Road to Ruins, we detoured a bit to Dzibilchaltun. This is a former Mayan city that began about 3000 B.C., and reached its peak about 600-800 A.D.. At the peak it is believed to have had about 20,000 inhabitants.
As at Chichen Itza, we encountered a cuckoo arrangement at the ticket booth, where two government agencies are each charging admission. So you need to pay them each, separately. The cashiers sit side by side. Go figure.
Dzibilchaltun has four main points of interest - a square with very long steps or bleachers, a cenote, a chapel, and a unique building called the Dolls' House. Have a tour around these in the following photos:
The so called Doll's House, named for seven doll like figures discovered there. This is also th eonly Mayan structure discovered so far with windows. The windows are in astronomically strategic positions.
To leave Dzibilchaltun and go north to Progreso and the Gulf of Mexico we selected a nice looking quiet road. But it turned out to be so quiet because of being a dead end. We reversed our way and got onto highway 261, a broad Interstate type thing, that nevertheless had a good shoulder. It was noisy, but it worked.
We took this small and quiet road north toward Progreso.
Laurie MarczakI know exactly nothing but the wires at the end make me think toy, as do all the visible plasticky looking screws. I’ll find a nearby American to ask though...VERY happy you seemed not to picked it up for a closer inspection. Good Grampies! Reply to this comment 6 years ago
When we got to Progreso we expected a Playa del Carmen type situation, in which the common people would be living away from the beach, and where the beach scene would be a wholly separate tourist world. But Progreso is not like that. The beach thing is limited to the one street by the beach, and in fact it seemed like the main people on that street were also locals.
We checked in to our hotel Playa Linda, where we found our room to be quite decent, but with the exception of no windows to the outside, though there is a window to a breezy corridor. Otherwise the beds and decor are a giant step up from yesterday's Hotel San Jose.
Just down the street we found a restaurant, by the usual means of the waiter standing in the street with the menu. had a look at it and it seemed good, but I told the man we would like to look on down the street a bit. Dodie, though, saw no reason to prolong matters, and we just dove in to this first place. It was a good choice. Not only did we find the food and prices excellent, but the waiter was really nice as well. It turned out his son is in Canada, running a fruit import business, shipping from right here.
The waiter pointed out that Canada was a good place for his son, because the Land of Trump = yeeecch. We of course agreed, which is why we liked this waiter.
A street in the middle of Progreso. We expected things to turn touristy toward the beach.
The road ahead, as we continue with this "Emerald Coast" looks increasingly barren and wind swept. That is, exciting!
Today's ride: 52 km (32 miles) Total: 656 km (407 miles)
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Douglas LotenGreetings from Doug on the Coast Road near Uaymitun! Safe journeys and I’ll look forward to your blogs! Reply to this comment 6 years ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Douglas LotenHi Doug, as you will soon read, that restaurant tip was great!
If you feel like sending us an email at shadybrook@shaw.ca we will stay in touch, at least sending updates on where in the world we are cycling. Reply to this comment 6 years ago