St.Jerome to Mont Laurier by shuttle and then on to Nominique: Starting Le P'tit Train du Nord

July 24, 2010

Met some interesting people at the train station in St. Jerome. An 85 year old man showed us the bike he had built for himself as he felt he was getting too old to drive - he rode a trike (that he had modified) and added 2 car batteries to the front forks. He had tried to mount them on the back but the bike would tip backwards with the weight! Inspirational to see his spirit. We also encountered a couple from St. Adele who also ride a tandem. They had just returned from a cycling trip 1800 km. around Ontario.

The Comfort Inn at St.Jerome is a Bienvenue Cyclistes approved hotel.

We had an early start to connect with the shuttle at 7:30 to take us to the northern point of the trail (Mont Laurier). Most people choose to ride N to S as the grade is easier on the legs. We were very impressed with the service they offer and the care they take with the bikes. As usual, our bike presents logistical challenges and the crew were up to the task. They mounted our bike sideways on the top and secured it with everything possible, from zap straps to bungies - a good thing as the roads in Quebec are really rough. We really bounced around on comfortable seats - you can imagine the ride the bikes had.

Our bike was in good hands with the shuttle people

A feature of the trail is the historical significance of the train stations and communities along the route. St. Jerome has been beautifully restored to its former glory and is equipped with many services. The morning we left, they were setting up a stage for a live musical performance - one of many featured this summer.

This caboose was the office for the shuttle company

We noticed on the shuttle that we were the only cyclists who were fully loaded for camping. Most people take advantage of the many B&B`s and luggage shuttle service along the way. We love to camp, but sometimes we yearn for a lighter bike.

In contrast to St.Jerome, Mont Laurier station is very low key. The trail is a delight: smooth pavement with frequent rest and information stops. As the shuttle takes almost 3 hours and we shopped for groceries, we got a late start. The scenery was beautiful, densely forested and felt quite isolated as we saw little habitation.

It was great to be back on our bike after the 3 hour shuttle ride

Later in the day we came upon a rustic campground that was created by a man who "loved nature" and wanted to share his property (a few km above Lac Saguay) with cyclists. There is an outhouse, large platform for tents and nicely landscaped - all for free. It isn`t publicized on any maps and if we had known about it (and had enough water for camping with us) we would have stayed there.

At the free rustic campground just north of Nominique. We would have stayed if we had enough water for cooking.

We were impressed by the generosity of the owner of the land that the free camping was on

We continue to struggle with fluency in our high school French. We find the Quebecers to be really tolerant and full of humour when we attempt to speak or look stricken at their speed in talking. When we stopped at Lac Saguay for a cold drink and info about a campground with water, the shopkeeper was so welcoming that she continued to give us instructions in French at an incredible speed. We asked her "parlez vous Anglais?" and we told her that we "parle francais un peu" she nodded,laughed and rattled on in French again. I find that it helps to smile and say "oui" a lot and when it gets completely confusing, "je comprends un peu".

At this point we were totally confused about where to get a campsite and a fellow cyclist rode up and asked if we were going to Nominique to the campsite where he was staying. What luck - it was the same one that we were trying to find out about. It was only 10 km down the trail and he offered to ride with us. A wonderful end to a long but good day.

The campground was once again not on any of the brochures and it is right on the trail - Camping au Boise du Village. $18 for 2 people, free hot showers and a fully equipped kitchen...friendly and low key. While we were showering, the blue skies unexpectedly changed to a torrential rain storm. We scrambled to rescue our panniers and belongings - we were grateful for the kitchen and its dry warmth.

The campground at Nominique was right on the Route Verte trail.

Today's ride: 58 km (36 miles)
Total: 142 km (88 miles)

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