August 14, 2010
Parc National de la Pointe-Taillon to Dolbeau-Mistassini
Had an enjoyable 16 km ride out of the Park following the lake. Beautiful birch forests.
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Took the private cyclist's ferry from Point Chevrette to Peribonka across Riviere Peribonka.
Met 2 young cyclists from Sagenuay who were also riding around the lake.
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At this point, we head inland along hwy. 169 (good paved cycle lane) and appreciate that the traffic is lighter here. After about 6 km we missed the arrow directing us to take a quieter side road - having missed the turn, a local cyclist noticed us and raced back to help us on our way. He spoke no English but was most helpful. This region of Quebec is almost exclusively French speaking. We had been warned that we would have trouble, but we find that the friendly hospitality of the locals overcomes this language barrier.
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After Sainte-Jeanne-d-Arc the route leaves the road and a separate paved cycling trail takes us to Dolbeau-Mistassini.
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Entering Dolbeau is quite thrilling as it is famed for its spectacular rapids "Chutes" which are along the trail. The municipal camp ground located here at the rapids was our destination, but a local group of 200 cyclists who were doing an annual 3 day, supported tour around the lake had filled the campground. We were directed on to Camping St-Louis - a blast from the past.
Like other private campgrounds in Quebec, it is mostly occupied by trailers that are set up for the season. Semi olympic sized pool, petanque lanes, volleyball, horseshoes, restaurant, country music blaring on the loudspeakers were a few of the features of the park. Being a Saturday night made it ever more special as they were having a country and western dance later that evening. We felt a bit of culture shock having come from the peace and quiet of the national park and cycling through the countryside. The tenting seemed poor value, set at the back of the park with little attempt to make it inviting. We felt the onset of another electrical storm and decided to rent a chalet instead at the campground for $40. This gave us all the comforts of home with some quirkiness thrown in.
Today's ride: 66 km (41 miles)
Total: 1,302 km (809 miles)
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