August 5, 2010
Cap Rouge to Lyster: The beginning of the Eastern Townships
The morning did not bring relief from the bad weather. It was very cold with heavy dark clouds. We got to go down the steep hill for the second time and tackled the Cap Rouge hill, 12% grade. There is an option to take stairs instead but that looks more difficult and impossible for a loaded bike. After the hills of the previous day, we found that this hill was not so bad.
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We had planned to tour Quebec City but realized that we had many miles to go before our next train booking to Sagenuay, so we wisely decided to bypass Quebec City this trip and focus on the travels ahead instead. We felt that the one day we could spare would not do the city justice.
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So off we went, across the huge Pont du Quebec. An awesome bridge and view of the city and St. Lawrence. A narrow path is provided for cyclists and we were just able to fit the wide load of our bike - thank goodness we didn`t meet anyone.
Off the bridge in Charny, we (the navigator, that is) missed the Route Verte sign and took a detour to Sainte Etienne de Lauzon before finding the trail.
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This section is the Parc Lineaire Le Grand Tron - a super straight crushed gravel trail. We endured a very stiff headwind and high humidity.
At Saint Agapit the trail becomes Parc Lineaire de la MRS de Ltbiniers - paved! For the stoker, this is particulary welcome as Mary Ellen is becoming covered from head to toe by the grit from the trail. Nonetheless, this area takes great care in maintaining the trail and rest stations to a high standard.
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By the time we reached Dosquet we had to take refuge from the humidity and wind, so we decided it was time to try the famed Quebecois treat, poutine, for the first time. Poutine is frites with gravy and melted cheese (curd). Heavy, high fat food but tasty. We think the air conditioning helped.
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The scenery has completely changed from the Chemin du Roy.
After lunch we pushed on for an additional 30 km and saw a sign on the trail for Motel Chalets Lyster. On a whim we turned off and we are so glad we did. It is a delightful oasis set on the river. We had a lovely private cabin, fully outfitted and self sufficient - $68.
Today's ride: 77 km (48 miles)
Total: 730 km (453 miles)
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