August 13, 2010
Alma to Parc National de la Pointe-Taillon
Breakfast at Almatoit is a communal affair. It's his philosophy to bring his guests together. We enjoyed several courses with Jean Guy explaining the local significance of each entree. We started with cranberry/orange juice, local cheeses, local blueberries with maple syrup and yogurt and his signature dish of eggs baked in a "cup made of ham", all adorned with edible flowers from his garden.
We share Jean Guy's passion for good coffee. He offered cappucino, espresso, etc. A highlight for us.
Got a really late start as we had some difficulty assembling the bike. Once again, we had problems with the master link on the rear chain when disassembling the bike in Montreal. Helene, Jean Guy's partner, kindly gave us a ride to the Veloroute Information Centre (where we booked our camping for the next 2 nights) and to a local bike shop, Alma Bicycle. That was truly fortunate as it was a great bike shop. They cleaned our chain which was a mess from the crushed gravel trails of the Eastern Townships. We have had endless problems with the power link being too tight on the rear chain and have looked in vain at many shops to purchase the pliers that quickly separate the link. Stephanie sold us the shop set of pliers to help us on our way. Thanks Stephanie!!
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The first 10 km. are very interesting as you pass over two large dams connecting Ile Maligne. There is a free shuttle ferry that transports cyclists across Grande Decharge River and on to Route Verte. We met a group of cyclists from Ontario, 4 adults and 2 very young children in a trailer. They had just started their journey and had had 4 flats that day. It was hot and both babies were screaming. We felt for them.
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Stopped at the excellent Veloroute de Bleuet Maison de Velo which offers cyclists comprehensive assistance for the route around Lac St. Jean.
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From here to the park, our route follows a very busy hwy. 169 on a paved shoulder. Many trucks! Despite the heavy traffic, we found the view beautiful and dramatic.
As we had been warned that there was no drinking water in the park, we carried a lot of water which really weighed us down. Even though our mileage was not high, this was a tough riding day.
Reached the park and were blown away by the services and beauty of the park. We had booked 2 nights and had been advised that there were no services. To our surprise, there was a bike shop, restaurant, gift shop, washrooms (with drinking water!) I guess no services means that there are no electrical hook ups at your campsite. Our campsite was 4 km. from the main area with services and our site was right on the lake steps from the sandy beach. The sites are spacious and well designed. We could stay here for a week. Each area has a kitchen shelter and outhouses, all with solar powered lights. Our idea of paradise - no cars! and only accessible for cyclists and walkers, with 40 km of trails around the park.
Today's ride: 40 km (25 miles)
Total: 1,170 km (727 miles)
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