August 25, 2009
Chalons au Champagne: Through the champagne country but not a coffee to be had
Ken
Another eventful and reasonably long day – no bile trouble but I did fall off on the wet tow path.
We had our juice and yoghurt and were off. It was a dull morning after rain but no actual rain; in fact it got quite hot in the afternoon. We set out to ride the first 10km along the tow path. We found the canal OK but the tow path was on the other side and we could see no way of getting over. Finally after riding around for 2 or 3km we did find a bridge and only had to man handle our bikes down a couple of flights of steps to get on to the tow path.
There were actually working boats on the canal and progress was great. Then the sealed path gave way to a track. three blokes were fishing and my wheel caught in a slippery rut and over I went into the middle of the fishing party. They helped me up, I straightened the handlebars and off I went.
We left the canal, crossed the main railway line and soon came to the champagne grapes that the entire foothills are covered with. Our way was steeply uphill and soon the famous windmill came into sight. We came to villages hoping for a sit down and a coffee but none of them had anything but a boulangerie and many opportunities for wine tasting. The grapes were only half way through veraison. Spotted some downy mildew and 2 spotted mite damage. Most were well trimmed but not all. I saw a man with a straddle tractor trimming one row at a time. The rows were 1.3m apart and the vines im. Some areas have very low fruiting wires. After one village we had a very steep push up a hill and past many famous champagne names both well known and not so well known. But no places where we could get coffee although we finally struck a coke in one place.
Finally we descended from the grape country into wheat, corn, sugar beet and flatter going and the wind even began to get behind us. We followed the D26 and then the D1. Then a long run into Chalon on a mainly straight road. One navigation error nearing the town but the GPS put us right before we landed on an N road. Finally into the Centre Ville where Tricia found us The Hotel Pasteur then off to explore. We found what we thought was the Cathedral and got our passports stamped but it was in fact the church of Notre Dame en Vaux – very magnificent. By the time we found the Cathedral somewhat later it was shut. Then to the Supermarket where Tricia selected some things for a three course meal and I bought a bottle of Cotes de Rhone for 1.30E
Today's ride: 59 km (37 miles)
Total: 636 km (395 miles)
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