August 4, 2022
Following the Arkansas
Leadville to Nathrop
After once again visiting the scenic Leadville main street, as I rolled quickly for a more than 3 miles to the Arkansas River Valley. I realised why it had been a struggle yesterday climbing up to Leadville, the highest city in the USA. While in the distance are two of the tallest mountains in the lower 48 states.
Despite having to cycle on a highway, since I'm following the Arkansas River downstream, I barely need to pedal. Keeping me company are two abandoned railway lines. One with tracks still in place, the other long gone.
The long gone is the same one I followed up and over Hagerman Pass. However for most of today's ride I can't cycle on it's former rail right of way. Even when I can clearly see a track exists on the other side of the Arkansas River, bridges across the river are for private use only. Which I soon find out from an angry landholder, after thinking I was at the point where I could cross the river.
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Thankfully at the next bridge there are signs directing me to a scenic railway route. For the most part all it is, is a dirt road which is close to the river a few times. Until an elephant rock formation appears. From here I'm soon going through a few short tunnels carved out of rock.
Unfortunately soon past the tunnels, I leave the Midland Railway Route for the final time as it curves high away from the river to begin heading towards Denver.
Thankfully the town of Buena Vista is not too far away and since I have made good time I have arrived in time for lunch.
Buena Vista feels smaller than Leadville but still the main street is busy, while the Arkansas is nearby but not really part of town.
There is however an excellent museum, which has a railway focus which helps explain the three different railway companies that went through here. A large model railroad particularly helps explain the history of the Arkansas Valley.
For those not aware in the USA, just like in the UK, private companies ran the railways. Which meant often they built lines and stations that created duplicate services. To get to Denver you could go by various ways. These days there is basically only one rail line which crosses the Rockies in Colorado and only one passenger train.
After crossing over the fast flowing Arkansas, I leave my bicycle and walk up to the old Midland Railroad route, which allows a scenic view of Buena Vista. However the walk isn't that interesting as there isn't any thing here other than a road to show where the Midland went.
Back on my bicycle, as I leave town storm clouds have begun to appear and a slight headwind has picked up. Thankfully back roads allow me to avoid the highway for a bit before I have to join the busy road to Nathrop.
From Nathrop, I'm leaving the Arkansas behind as I begin heading towards a mountain range. With a storm looking imminent I make my way to my Warmshower hosts home. I had considered getting further tonight but the weather has dictated my plans.
Thankfully Marilyne and her husband Chris make me feel welcome in their home. Allowing us to watch a colourful cloudy sunset which never brings any rain. While Marilyney spends the evening rebuilding a Lego house based on the Home Alone house. Which included a few of Kevin's traps and other items from the film.
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