August 18, 2022
Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad
Bicycles allowed on the train
I had a wonderful scenic ride on the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad, which travels between Chama and Antonito on the old Denver and Rio Grande route.
Before leaving home I emailed them asking if my bicycle could come on the train and they said yes. So my bike spent the day in the open aired car, which provided a talking point between me and fellow travellers.
The open car provides plenty of opportunity to admire the views as initially the train climbs to the Cumbres Pass Summit by using a few horseshoe bends in this open landscape as we cross from New Mexico back into Colorado. At times the train is nearly turning back on itself, with the horseshoes taking a tight curve.
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Once over the summit, we continue snaking our way to the halfway point of Osier. A station in the middle of nowhere, which has a large building where an included buffet lunch is served.
As we finish lunch, the train from the other direction appears. At the same time we left Chama, another train left Antonito. Which allows people to just travel to here and go back, instead of travelling the whole length and requiring a bus to get back. It also allows railway staff to travel back to their home town. Most importantly because it's a tougher climb from Chama, they also swap steam trains so the stronger train does the steeper section every day.
As my train continues onwards towards Antonito, we are now more traveling on the edge of mountains, with a large gorge below. While the railroad is taking a lot more sweeping bends allowing a more gradual descent.
After the second tunnel it becomes more open and so a less inspiring landscape but still interesting at times. Thankfully throughout the journey a guide is providing some informative commentary.
With so many horseshoe bends we cross the border between New Mexico and Colorado eleven times, sometimes we are in a state for less than a mile before crossing the border again.
Unlike previous afternoons the sun has stayed out all day, so once the train has arrived into Antonito. I feel like riding. Even if the ride is flat on a busy highway, next to a railroad line.
Instead of finding a place to camp beside this noisy highway. I'm leaving the highway to head east to Manassa, where I think a fairground on the edge of town maybe a suitable place to camp tonight.
After getting through a quiet town where nothing is open including the park toilets. The fairground on the edge of town is just a horse arena with a grandstand. It's not the best spot but it will do.
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