September 12, 2011
The Organ Concert !
In Passau the Dom has 5 organs which can be played simultaneously from one main console, it is considered the largest church organ in the world. It gives a concert each day at midday, ken who loves organ music, and knows a lot about it, was very keen to hear it. Ten years ago when we were in Passau by a silly mix up in times we had missed it so we were keen this didn't happen again. Passau is 63 km from Deggendorf so it seemed impossible that we would make Passau then find the Dom in time for a midday concert. The plan therefore was to get to Passau, find a bike shop (we have a couple of minor problems), stay the night, go to tomorrow's concert and then ride on tomorrow afternoon.
After Deggendorf the Danube valley narrows a lot so we weren't riding through as many fields of corn. The going was fantastic, flat with mainly good surfaces, no wind , probably the easiest going we have had so we flew along. Stopped at Winzer for a very nasty (slightly sweet ) coffee, 1.30Euros at a pretty little Backere. By eleven we had done 50km and it suddenly dawned on us we should make Passau by midday and find the Dom, I would sit outside and mind the bikes and Ken could go to the concert. Everything gets a bit complicated around Passau because it is here that the Inn and the Ilz join the Danube and the river seems to enter a gorge, The route was complicated and hilly but we steamed on arriving at a part of the river in Passau where there were a large number of tour boats tied up. We had 20 minutes to go but where was the Dom? We could see its outline up high somewhere so rushed up all the cobbled streets leading up. Then miracle of miracles at ten to 12 we burst into the Dom square, we had made it. Parked the bikes and I settled down and off went a very pleased Ken. He was soon back saying he had read a notice that said something about the organ and 12.30, so lets eat our bread and cheese then he would go in. We did then off he went again. He was back just as quickly but not as happily. The notice had said that the Dom would be locked until 12.30 while the Organ Concertwas on! EXACTLY the mistake we had made 10 years ago! Old dogs don't learn new tricks and it would help if we knew more German.
We decided Passau was not for us so decided to push on a bit and just as we were about to go over the bridge spotted a bike shop. At least we would get something from our Passau experience. We bowled up just to find it was shut from 12 to 1pm. Patience was running a little thin so on we went for16km where we found a lovely hotel right on the side of the Danube. We could have a double room with a view over the Danube for 70Euros or one in the attic without a view for 55. Our attic room is charming and huge so we can spread all our junk around.
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Today's ride: 83 km (52 miles)
Total: 2,184 km (1,356 miles)
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