August 14, 2011
Riding in the rain: Disaster strikes
It rained heavily overnight. This was the first test of our tent in bad weather so we were pleased that it kept us snug and dry. By morning the rain was very much lighter so the pack up was not nearly as much of a nightmare as we had expected.
The meteo was for rain all day so we set out wearing our raincoats. It was however only very light rain all day so really not a problem at all. We were proud by the progress we were making but as always pride comes before a fall. Had done somewhat over 70km when we reached Gennes and started looking for somewhere to stay. There was a camping ground but with the weather we thought we would prefer a Chambre d'Hote or hotel. Although there were lots of signs they all led to nowhere so we opted for the camping. This is France so of course the reception was closed until around 4pm and it was only 2.30pm - it all looked rather soggy and it started to rain again so we decided to push on. Not without a coffee though, it was the best one we have had for a while large, full flavoured ,very hot and what seems to be about the standard price around here of 2.4Euros. We met a couple of German cyclists who told us there was a good looking hotel about 6km along the road. Off we went but before long I heard a massive bang and my bike felt very strange. Off came the wheel and to our dismay there was a huge slit in the side of the wall of my new, expensive tire. There was no way we could continue. I set off on Kens bike to see if I could find the mystery hotel but low and behold a few hundred meters along the road I found a Chambre d'Hote. There was someone home and in my terrible French explained the situation - yes there was a room we could have. A couple of loads of luggage and Ken carefully pushing my bike and we are installed here. It used to be a troglidite dwelling though all the people are in the front house now, just the bikes in the old caves at the back. The youngish man of the house rushed off with the tube, he thought we were just two senile old people unable to fix a puncture. Ken was desperately trying to explain it was the tire rather than the tube that was the problem but he had no English and we didn't know the French word for tire. We do now - I have no idea how to spell it but it sounds rather like puuss and our friend has mended our tube.
A shower and a trip up the road to a bar for beer and we are about back to normal. I gather there is somewhere about 1km up the road where we can get a meal. Ken will ride into Samur tomorrow where there is a bike shop and get a couple of new tires (will now carry a spare), One minor problem it is Ascension Day tomorrow so all the shops might be shut but someone says there is a Decathalon in Samur and it may be open in the morning.
The weirdest meal of our life last night. People who only travel in cars always underestimate distances. Our hostess had said we could eat at 'le Cave' about 1km along the road, it was in fact a 25min fast walk. When we got there there was in fact a cave. It was a troglodyte cave used to grow mushrooms and snails. For the restaurant 'ring the bell and walk 100m into the cave'. I am tall and was glad I was not much taller as the roof was only a little way above my head. We got to the massive free form cave that was the restaurant and were asked if we had a booking (It seems that people book well in advance for this 'special' experience) We were very early so the kind lady found us a place, we were as yet the only ones there and I couldn't see how this massive cave would ever be full, I was wrong, A few minutes later hoards of people began to pour in. All sorts, old people with walking sticks, young people, mums and dads with children and babies in prams there must have been 100 - 200. The noise became almost deafening and the movement of the waiting staff frantic. To say the food was unusual is an understatement. Ken and I chose the 20Euro menu. Basically it was mushrooms of every type and prepared in every way they could possibly think of. Absolutely delicious to start with but I got fuller and fuller it was a huge meal even for someone who had ridden 75km then had a fast 25min walk - how the more sedentary patrons coped I don't know. After somewhat over 2 hours I refused my coffee and feeling rather claustrophobic was glad to escape and pleased there was a 25 minute walk back to our troglodyte home. The coincidence in this is that it is the very cave that Jane and I visited 20years ago to look at the snail and mushroom growing - that was long before part of it had been turned into this extraordinary restaurant,
Today's ride: 75 km (47 miles)
Total: 298 km (185 miles)
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6 years ago