September 2, 2011
Along the Rhine: A day of highs and lows
Last night we walked over the bridge into Switzerland to a beautiful little town - we of course had no money so all we could do was look but it was a feast for our eyes. This morning's breakfast buffet was sumptuous . There was wonderful fruit salad with lots of red currents in it and instead of cereal I had cashew nuts and yoghurt with it. One of my real favourites is smoked salmon so that with cream cheese is what I had on my rolls. Then the owner suggested we make filled rolls and take fruit for our lunch so there was a tasty lunch as well. During breakfast we talked with Andrew and Beth and their 2 charming little daughters (5 and 8). They had driven from South Africa, where Andrew had been working, to Germany a mammoth trip and as one of the girls told me 'It is very hot in the Sudan' They had broken down here in Rheinfelden with a broken water pump - better than in the Sudan!
Our start on the track was fairly inauspicious. We started with a bang but then we kept meeting terrible tracks with rocks eventually coming to a cliff with steps cut up. We began to wonder if we would ever make any reasonable progress and wondered if we would even get to Bad Sackingen (20km away) today. Then we got a few smarts and realized the difference between the Wanderweg and the Radweg. The former is for walkers. With that information and the realization that of course (unlike In France) all the bike signs will have a uniformity about them progress started. It was wonderful riding up the Rhine as it rushed down towards the sea between the mountains - it is amazing how swift the current is and how clean the water looks. The small towns were a treat, in particular Laufenberg which was like a living museum. Often across the river was a matching Swiss town. I was quite surprised at how much heavy industry there was but always it seemed confined and we were soon through it.
After about 60 km we decided we had had enough for the day and would find somewhere to stay. We passed one place on the edge of a small town but decided we would get one closer to the centre - very bad decision. Then nothing, I saw a couple of zimmers but could raise no one.
On and on, we and it was getting hotter and now it was hilly as we went inland. Then suddenly we were in Switzerland. Oh not only no where to stay but we had no money so couldn't even buy a drink. Futile searches for Hotels and ATM machines followed. Then down a very long hill we swooped and surprise surprise we were somewhere I recognized the Rhine Falls. Years ago I had visited these with my friend Jan when we were travelling with Ursula, There was an Information there but they had no interest in homeless cyclists, they just wanted to sell us Swiss flags, Springly chocolates and boat rides under the falls. They did however have an ATM machine and we were able to get money and buy an icecream at an inflated price. The push up from the falls was tough but to cut a long story short we eventually got to Schaffhausen and with the help of friendly local who rode with us to the information found this place. Ken's tongue is hanging out for a beer so I had better finish.
A visit to town didn't quite drink the town dry, just almost. We went to the Santa Lucia restaurant hoping to get that well renowned Swiss delicacy 'Lemon Spagetties' but were disappointed and Ken settled for his fall back Pizza and me for Risotto.
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Today's ride: 102 km (63 miles)
Total: 1,500 km (932 miles)
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