Day 14 Grevenmacher, Luxemburg to Bernkastel-Kues, Germany

August 4, 2015

The weather forecast called for rain from about 9 a.m. and thunder storms in th elate afternoon. So we launched our typical plan for keeping the tent dry, by getting up at 5:30. This not only worked to fool the rain, which did show up at 9, but gave us quite a jump on putting in some distance.

Distance turns out to be important to us just now. Before leaving home, we scoped out the dates by which we should be arriving at key points/places. That list says we should be in Koblenz by August 6. That means we need to get on with it!

The Mosel Radweg passes directly in front of the camping we were at, so it felt pretty luxurious to just hop on it. Kind of like having "rock star" parking. The bike path and signage continue perfect. But while this section of the Mosel has very nice villages and lots of grapes to look at, as well as the river itself, the most beautiful scenery is yet to come. That meant our day was a pretty simple pleasant pedal through the most pleasant of regions.

The official language of Luxemburg is French, so after a brief swing through Germany yesterday, we were back to speaking French at the camping. But shortly after leaving the camping we were well and truly in Germany. This was most apparent when we pulled in to a bakery. The selection of products was all different, with things like mohn schnecken and pflaum kuchen making an appearance. I got a walnut torte! Dodie did the ordering and paying, and had a good session with the sales girl, reviewing all her German words.

Out on the trail, there was still no way to be sure what language other cyclists could be speaking. So instead of bonjour or guten tag, I just used hello. Other cyclists now were in good supply. In fact, thee was a fairly continuous stream of them, packed either for guest housing, or fully loaded for camping. Based on their gear, and from those we talked to, the majority were German, on trips that would last several weeks.

As often happens, our Canadian flags were a passport to conversations with some of the other cyclists. Mostly, it wasw Germans who had been to Canada. They were eager to describe where they had been, which was a way of revisiting the experience. We understand this - if we would run run into Germans back home, we would say "yes, we've been to the Mosel, we went all the way to .... and etc"

One German couple, who had been to Alaska and also Toronto were impressive because in the moderate rain they were wearing full length waterproof pants and booties. They were really equipped, in general, including Ortlieb panniers that were 20 years old (they have been touring a long time). It was fun looking at how the packs have changed over that time. Looking over their bikes, I noticed a weird appendage near the rear axle of one, and asked about it. "We are grandparents", they replied, "Gotta drag the kids in a trailer - that's the attaching point". As it happens, I have such a thing on my bike still as well!

Our fellow travellers included one youngster who turned out to be eleven. Not only did he have two big packs, but he slogged along all day with his parents with no complaining at all.

Fellow cyclists. Actually these are not typical - out for a day ride only.

More representative view of cyclists on the path today

The well equipped German couple. They were interested in our DaBrim helmet additions

All day we rode through the vines, or with views of vines across the river. Sometimes it looks like a total green carpet, but usually you see the patchwork caused by plantings at different angles.

A party among us cyclists, under a bridge in the rain

Look Erika and Marvin, a Kalkhoff cycle in its native land.

The rain let up just long enough for us to eat the sandwiches we had gotten at the first bakery. These were remarkable for their use of real ingredients in good quantities. For example, my pork sandwich had two thick slices of real pork roast, and in Dodie's sandwich was an equivalent amount of good Camembert.

Great sandwiches, had thick helpings of real fillings

This route is not just sort of great, and the services for cyclists are not just sort of added on. Rather this is a full on take your bike and tour the wine country, and stay in a guesthouse/wine tasting place in comfort kind of place. That means there are guest houses all over the place. Programs like the "Bienvenue Cyclistes" in Quebec are great, but this is really the headquarters of cycle friendly guesthouses, and guesthouses in general.

Although the Romans obviously tromped all over Europe, they seem to have had a particular presence here on the Mosel. No doubt it was the good growing conditions for the grapes. All along the path are explanatory signs or directional indications for various Roman things, like villas or grape presses, or archaeological sites. along the way are also found a few Roman mile markers, though they worked in units that were obviously not miles. These markers have been discovered nearby and installed along the path in a few spots.

The roman mile marker. It is called a leugenstein, or leuga stone. A leuga is 2200 feet, I think.

The town of Neumagen-Dhron is one that had taken the Roman theme to heart. Somewhere nearby, a gravestone in the form of a carved ship laden with wine was found. It was the marker for a Roman wine merchant. (I hope I have this story right!) So in the town is a replica of the marker, and the likeness of the ship reappears in the names or graphics of many town businesses.

Neumagen-Dhron is a very pretty town, but it seems the real over the top Mosel attractiveness only begins at Bernkastel-Kues. Here there are river cruise ships at anchor, some exceedingly long - with picture window staterooms along the sides. Here too are hotels with fancy exteriors, like the "Three Kings". We were very tired by the time we arrived. Perhaps predictably, the cute and accessible guesthouses that we have been passing all day were not to be found at the centre of Bernkastel. Just to see, we did stop in at the Three Kings to get a price. - €112. We were almost tired enough to go for it, but would have to be really quite seriously beat to go over 80 euros. So since the rain had now stopped, we headed toward the camping, but with still an eye open for a nice guesthouse. We found one! It is called the "Holiday Wine Tasting" of P.J. Hauth. Here, for 70 euros we have a room that is large, even by US standards, with a balcony, and yet anther room with a cot in it. There is a fridge, TV, coffee maker, and hair dryer, but no soap (of any kind) - go figure!

Since today's distance was pretty good, we will be able to just saunter into Koblenz, maybe staying at beautiful Cochem tomorrow. We'll see, but meanwhile I'm going to check out what channels are on this TV....

In places the vines are soo steep that an elevator is needed to go up to them. This little gizmo runs on slotted track

An example of zillions of signs advertising guesthouses that are targetting cyclists

Bernkastel-Kues, the start of the most beautiful section of the Mosel

This almost was our hotel. If we were 42 euros richer, we could have stayed there

Today's ride: 91 km (57 miles)
Total: 692 km (430 miles)

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