July 12, 2022
It's Castle Day!
Rheichsburg and Eltz
Two castles in one day, almost more than I can handle. Since, once again, it would be hot later, we decided to do the ascent hike to Rheichsburg castle (above Cochem) in the morning, then the train/bus ascent to the Eltz castle (1/2 way between Cochem and Koblenz) later when it was hot.
First, that castle that looms above Cochem.
It may not look that high up, but there were lots of people stopping to gasp for breath on the way! The views of the castle kept getting better and better as we climbed.
As you can see, there are grapes just below the castle. The town of Cochem actually bought this castle and maintains it. They may even grow those grapes to offset the cost? A long history starting with it being built in the year 1000, the castle was originally built to charge customs duties on the Mosel river which was the main trade conduit between France and Germany (not that there was a France and Germany at the time, but you know what I mean!). It had access (somehow) to a chain which it could pull on to block access on the river to enforce the customs payments.
Looking back down on the town, you see what those kings saw.
And through the castle entrance we go.
Just before the "ticket booth", we see a panoramaterrasse (one of those long German words you can actually figure out), and think - why not? So we go in for a coke and coffee to jump start our day.
After we sit, we notice that at the table right beside us is a German couple that we have seen on this route a number of times. We both exclaim "whoa!" and cannot believe it. It turns out they are both physicists (always good people, physicists) and live in Cologne (Koln). They are headed to Koblenz too, so we told them we would see them tomorrow!
We enter the castle and see varied styles of building and construction materials.
The tower keep seen below was stayed completely intact in spite of bombing during WW2, so it gained the moniker the Witch Castle Rock. The picture on the keep wall is a mosaic.
We opted not to wait for the English guided tour (which were not very frequent) and the one is German was quite entertaining. This fellow was very dramatic in his explanations. At least we think so.
I've always liked seeing what the view is from these castle windows. There was a reason usually why the window was put here.
The balcony has some amazing views of the town of Cochem and the surrounding vineyards.
Our hotel is on the far side of the river, the second building from the bridge on the riverside.
We walked down the hill then, and into town and had to consider lunch since it was about noon, and if you don't eat by 2pm, nothings open till dinner. Of course, there are always vending machines...
We did have lunch (no alcohol) and after a quick stop at the hotel, we headed to the train station. We had purchased a "9 euro ticket" for July (we had one for June as well) which allows you to take as many train, tram, and bus rides as you like all over Germany for the entire month! Amazing deal. So we took a train to Hazenport (17 minute ride) which - rather humiliating - is about 1/2 what we ride tomorrow in the direction of Koblenz - and then took a bus up to Eltz castle. The bus climbs up this steep hill (the gorge along the Mosel) and then, magically, opens up onto Saskatchewan.
Not what we expected. We assumed the road would traverse some switchbacks and end up at a castle. Nope. We drove along quite a ways with this prairie setting out the window, and finally come to a parking lot. We get out and start descending - about 100 m elevation to the Eltz castle.
So this castle was built about 1,000 yr ago and is currently owned by one family. It was originally owned by 3 families, but finally they are down to one. The castle guarded the route between the fertile Maifeld plateau and the Mosel river and from this derived their wealth which continues to this day. It is still occupied by "count Karl".
Inside you see about 1/3 of the castle in the tour, and it has some great antiquities. Quite a different look than the Reichsburg castle which looked down on the town of Cochem, this castle looks down on a forest.
I am thinking that this chair is the one you give to that guest you don't want staying too long....I told Marjory this was the original design for the Brooks saddle.
The beds were elevated, so that you would be warmer at night. They were really short reminding us of how our average height has increased so drastically.
There were so many loos throughout the castle and some of them had running water to flush with. Mainly there was a straight drop down the outside of the castle walls though.
These dishes below were apparently very expensive - so much so that they were never used. It reminds me of most Royal Doulton or Spod dishes that we used to collect, and how now you can buy them on eBay for a pittance.
The castle used to sell cannons. The deal was apparently that if you bought one of the real ones, you got to take one of these little toy ones. Its the original two for one deal!
Continuing in our "least comfortable chair series"....
The most interesting room was the kitchen. It had this little hoist - the copper pot below is hanging on it - that allowed them to move very hot pots off the stove and onto the table. The sawtooth side that you see allowed for an adjustable height of the hoist.
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2 years ago
We don't run out of pots here!
And every size of frying pan you can imagine. There was another wall with more sizes, but I figured you were tired of pots and pan pictures.
Finally, time to leave and our trek back to Cochem. First a stop at the best looking WC in Europe!
Tomorrow, we bike to Koblenz. As it is 32 degrees as I write this, and tomorrow is supposed to be hotter yet again, we will leave as early as we can without skipping breakfast. Unfortunately breakfast only starts at 0800 so we will be totally packed tonight and in a "3 point stance" first thing in the morning. Only 50 km, and along the river (i.e. flat), it will be a quick and easy ride. Famous last words!
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Great postings !
2 years ago
Sending email waving from my hops with grown spurt on this 30c weather till rain on Sunday.Yes sorry Becks is good non alcohol too. I have lots of IPA’s on hand if you got my photo of kinds standing on my deck with mountains behind.
Great blog and keep it coming. Happy travels.
Roger.
2 years ago