July 9, 2024
Wehr to Kembs
3 Stations in 1 day.
The plan now is that we will head into France, as we’ve ridden part of the route to Mulhouse before. We decide to catch the train from a very small station called Wehr Brennet. It’s so small, its presence eludes us for a while and we come up on the wrong side of the tracks. We amend that situation and find the side for the Basel train. Ann masters the ticket machine and adds on the bikes and we sit down to wait. We watch a party of very young school children on the other side of the track who sit on the concrete platform, in the blazing heat. Fortunately most are wearing some sun protection.
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All goes well with our train journey. When we arrive at transit Basel station we find that there are no lifts or any easy means really of exiting the station. So all of our panniers and bags have to be removed and carried down one set of steps, and then the bikes. Fortunately, the exit is on this same lower level. Once on the street we begin the ride to the SBB station with the intention of getting tickets for us and our bikes into France- Besancon, in fact.
This does not happen. The woman at the ticket office tells Ann that she cannot issue international tickets for bikes. This seems ridiculous- surely people travel by train into France with bikes every day? We may have been better to book on Trainline. Interestingly none of our tickets have been checked on recent train travel.
The woman suggests trying St Johann station. Nobody we ask knows where this is, but we are saved by a map from the tourist information.
We are back to managing as we did pre smart phones. Neither of our phones are connecting at present. Ann’s eSIM is not compatible in Switzerland ( an oversight in our planning), and Michael’s is just not allowing data. St Johann is finally found, but it’s a basic operation and the ticket machine will not add bikes. So it’s back to the river, and our old friend Eurovelo 6, and pedal away. There are people swimming in the river and it certainly looks inviting.
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From here the ride is a breeze, although more breeze would be beneficial. It’s hot by the canal but there is some shade. We stop for an apple and a drink- our first substantial food for some hours. It’s strange how cycle touring often diminishes the appetite.
At Kembs we spot Camping du Canal, and check in with a young woman whose English is excellent- explained to us later by an English ‘resident’ of the camp. He tells us that her mother is French and father English. He also tells us that there’s an English enclave in the camp, who have taken over a corner of the restaurant tables. He calls us Australians but we forgive him.
It’s very very hot putting up our tent, there is no shade, but the reward is a beautifully cooling swim in the pool. We then enjoy an ice cream , sitting under the umbrella on the terrace. We chat to a young Scots family who have biked down the Rhine from Andermatt They have a six year old on a towed bike and a one year old in the buggy. Their plan is to return to Newcastle from Amsterdam. Admirable indeed.
It’s too hot to cook until 8pm. But there is a shelter with benches and tables. We appreciate these simple facilities. They make such a difference to the camping experience. And it’s a chance to chat with the Dutch family who have been hiking in the alps . The teenage sons are chopping veg while Dad pumps the Trangier and gets the pan hot. ‘A team effort,’ I comment. And mum agrees . There’s certainly a lot of chopping going on.
And so to bed. Sometime in the night, there’s a gentle pattering on the fly. Europe’s summer has certainly been green so far.
Today's ride: 35 km (22 miles)
Total: 643 km (399 miles)
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