July 14, 2024
Vesoul to Autet.
A day beside the river Saone.
Today we spend cycling beside river and canal. We start from Vesoul Lac Campground under a brilliantly clear sky, and basically follow the cycle route signs, firstly around the lake and then towards the Saone which we meet at Chemilly.
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
The route is very pretty, particularly at the start, but towards the end the river appears stagnant and discoloured. It’s a relaxed day however and we enjoy the cycling which, because of the trail, which allows us to move along at ferocious speeds close to 20kph for long periods of time. Bio bike indeed!
Of course being July 14 there’s an air of relaxation in the small towns we pass through, though generally they are very quiet with few shops, if any, open or available.
We revisit part of the route we travelled in 2022 when we cycled to Gray. This time, we head in the direction of Dampiere sur Salon, but stop just before, at a camping spot at Autet.
On the ride memories of the two steep climbs come back to us- one over the Savonyeux tunnel, which also includes the menace of swarming mosquitoes- so no stopping no matter what! The other at Ray sur Saone, which has a chateau on the hill and a lavoir in the town.
It’s with a sense of deja vue that come upon the riverside marquee, the food truck and bar, and the sunbathers by the river. Just as it was in 2022. The campsite is beyond, spacious and shaded. It’s no so easy to find a good site, as the ground is very rugged as if a flood has been through. But tent goes up and phones go on charge in the wash room. We have a table too. The classification system of John from Illinois, whom we met on the Loire in 2016 comes to mind. This is a 4 T campground- trees, tables, toilet seats, toilet paper. What’s not to like? When I go to pay for the site the woman behind the bar gives me two beers. Clearly my French needs refinement, but eventually all is clarified.
The area at this bend in the river is a spot favoured by families celebrating the national day. There are several hopeful fishers, and even a woman deeply embedded in the murk, casting her line. I’m surprised the water isn’t deeper. Also she is within the law, since technically, she isn’t swimming- yet. Dinner is tuna and rice in a tomato sauce. With two beers!
Later, having settled to sleep quite early, we are woken by the percussive sounds of countless fireworks exploding, forever. Every small town in the vicinity seems to be celebrating July 14 in similar fashion. Who foots the bill for the fireworks I have no idea but it’s not likely to be a fund that’s cut in a hurry.
Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles)
Total: 813 km (505 miles)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 5 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 0 |