July 17, 2024
Langres to Chaumont
The endless canal.
After a late 11am departure, we head to the tourist office and get a paper map of the stage to Chaumont and beyond, and then career down the very steep hill to the canal. At the bottom we find the canal and then we stay on the path. All day. I recall a Monty Python skit about Venice and its canals that had the memorable line ‘more (expletive deleted) gondolas.’ Today we were very grateful to be able to follow such an easy flat path but we had to admit that it was a little repetitive.
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The track alongside the Marne -Saone Canal is newly paved and we fly along at the start. There then appears a sign indicating that work is to be done on the route between June and August and that it would be ‘barrē’. It’s not in my nature to be cavalier about such things but apart from ā couple of shovels leaning on a wall and a truck parked at the start of one section, little seems to be happening, so I suggest we go ahead. Ann is not nearly so easily convinced, having been led astray by me once before, but she follows. What we encounter is a section newly sealed with some small stones and then a further section with potholes that have been filled. After about three kilometres we reach the other end of the route barrē which has the yellow sign and a rudimentary bit of fencing across the path that has already been moved aside.
After this the route is parfait and we sail along enjoying the ducks on the water, the herons which suddenly spring into the air as we pass, and the raptors in the air high above. We even spot a Ragondin swimming across the canal. Like some others we’ve travelled through recently, it seems a little remote. There are very few cyclists and even fewer boats on the water- we see a three all morning until Chaumont.
We stop at a fishing spot for lunch in the shade. An older couple with grandchildren are excited about what looks to be a catch, though of what, we’re not sure.
Just before Chaumont, we come to a lock and also a length of river where young students are learning kayaking skills.
From here we have to climb up for a few kilometres until we find our Airbnb place. The climb is OK though the traffic is a bit up front and personal. Finding the accommodation is quite easy though. After unpacking and reviving with a cup of tea, I change my bikes front brake pads since all of the downhills have revealed some creakyness.
We walk into Chaumont centre which is a traffic free pedestrian walkway, and admire some of the local architecture. It’s very pleasant in the warm evening air.
After buying supplies we head back for dinner .
Today's ride: 42 km (26 miles)
Total: 917 km (569 miles)
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