In Langres

July 16, 2024

Rampart ramble and lunch date.

It’s a blustery wind starting our day as we organise ourselves. While most campers seem to be moving on, we decide on breakfast followed by a walk around the ramparts. Our bikes are packed up and we secure them to the railing near where we’ve been camped and off we go.

These gargoyles must have once been very impressive.

The fortress that is Langres has quite a history, going back at least to Roman times and it was important in the 18th and 19th centuries as a defence for key parts of the country. It protected the road to Paris for example. I’m not sure exactly how well fortresses work, but this one had several features that made it a strong proposition as a form of defence. The tower under which we camped gave a good range of fire to several pieces of heavy artillery and its walls were seven metres thick. Exit and entry was well controlled by ports with drawbridges whose raising and lowering was done by a wheel mechanism. The Prussians were held off during the war of 1870. Our walk along the ramparts certainly gives a great view of the countryside and the surrounding hills that provided military fortifications also.

The town is reasonably free from tourists like ourselves and I wonder if they’re having a good season. We see a couple of Aussies who are bedecked in walking gear and tell us they are on day 28 of 85 on the Via Francigena which passes through Langres. We wish them well. Walking must be challenging- no lazy downhills once you reach the top.

The Cathedral, St Mammēs de Langres has hints of French Gothic and Romanesque style, but its facade is neoclassical. Like some others seen recently, it has quite an austere and plain interior. There’s an impressive tapestry though.

The faience tiles in the Holy cross chapel.

Alabaster statue “the White Madonna” 13th century.

Diderot, editor of the Enlightenment encyclopedia and a philosopher, was born here. He lived a fairly active life with a couple of mistresses and even published a racy novel.

We enjoy a leisurely lunch with a main of courge d’ētē Avec viande de saucisse. The local white wine accompanying it is very pleasant and after a cafē au lait to wake us up, we head off to find our apartment which is very close by. It’s an old building but a large and comfortable apartment.

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