July 6, 2024
Friedrichshafen to Steckborn
Leaving the lake and following the Rhine
After our host Irmagard’s satisfying breakfast and cups of coffee, we descend from our fourth floor eyrie with our bags and load up. It’s sunny and warm with ā promise of late afternoon rain.
We’re heading for the ferry at Meersburg to cross to Konstanz. There’s some discussion about whether that’s going to be Switzerland or Germany. The route is easy, well signposted and follows the busy road at times. The lake springs into view and we follow the shoreline.
Once we reach the ferry area, we buy bread from lunch and reach the wharf just as the flash passenger ferry is leaving. Alles gut though, as I spot the car ferry about a hundred metres away. We bike down and are waved on board, where we buy our tickets.
It’s a relaxed trip over during which the size of the lake becomes clearly apparent. For comparison, it’s about the same size and depth as Lake Taupo, in the middle of the North Island. Taupo looks a little clearer to me, but dairy run off and housing could change that.
Once over, it’s a case of finding the route along the Rhine. We visit a massive shopping mall to buy gas canisters for our Jetboil. I might have been stuck in there for years, only I suddenly spot a sports outlet who have what we need.
Once we’ve stashed the gas, we’re off, out of there. Curiously they have a bunch of school aged students in high viz, attempting to control the traffic. Is this a Scouting task? Anyway they seem to reach a point, after waving endless lines of cars on, of giving up, shrugging their shoulders and walking away. Life’s tough.
We continue on the Rhine Weg. The trail varies from open spaces, to along the road beside market gardens, and then down to the water, which is the connection between the lake and river. Eventually with rain about to pour down, we stop at an earlier campsite than planned. They offer a dormitory room given the forecast rain , which we snap up. Ann can have the top bunk. There’s one other couple cycling, like us, and our vintage, down the other end of the room.
We find a sheltered area with tables and benches full of students and their young leaders. They are a scouting group on a water safety course. Speaking of which, we’re not about to forgo the chance of a dip in the Rhine. We enjoy the swim with the water temperature at 22 c. Whilst the scouts are busy with activities we cook our food. There is a large tub of vegetables awaiting prep for the scout dinner.
Later as the rain falls on the umbrella lined terrace, we all watch the England v Switzerland football game, until a drawn game at extra time. This is not something we’re prepared to give more of, so at 8:30pm we crawl under our warm duvets and drift off to the sound of rain falling.
Today's ride: 43 km (27 miles)
Total: 484 km (301 miles)
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