Abbeville to Berck sur Mer

July 30, 2024

Grand Tour of Baie de Somme.

After ā fortifying breakfast, and one last look around the beautiful garden, Maurice says he will give us a tour. We say our farewells and take photos for the memories.

As with our other warmshowers stays this trip, this has been particularly memorable and we have learned such a lot about living in Abbeville and the Somme as well as about the French railway system from the 1970s to today. Maurice has a great collection of photos of memorable railway moments. Ann is able to share her experiences of growing up and having a father in a managing role with NZ Rail when it was a complete world on its own. We’ve enjoyed their daughter’s stories and observations about her NZ road trip a few years ago.

Maurice leads us on a quick tour of Abbeville, noting some of its historical buildings, and noting the rebuilds post WW11. He points out the site of the old river port before we meet the trail along the canal.

The trail is completely flat and runs beside the canal all the way to the turnoff to St Valery, so we make good time. St Valery is somewhere Maurice is very familiar with, since he often went there as a boy. St Valery also has an interesting historical past. It was from here that William set off to conquer England in 1066, Jeanne d’Arc was kept here as a prisoner until she was taken to Rouen and burned at the stake. In more recent times, in the early days of WW2 Scottish Regiment, the 51st Highland Division were surrounded and captured by German troops and sent into Germany as prisoners. The town was under constant bombing and artillery fire.

He gives us a quick tour of St Valery and takes us up to a high point from which the Baie de Somme is set before us. The tides here are immense, rising ten metres and more. Then up a steep off-road hill he takes us and we’re back through the town.

On the way to Croyons situated on the other side of the Baie, Maurice stops at the station of the vintage railway and we get close up with the train. There’s a smell of burning coal and lots of smoke as she takes off. Maurice has worked with the Heritage Railway for more than 50 years, indulging a boyhood passion.

Maurice greets the driver, someone he has worked with.

The coal came from Russia, but a new source will have to be found.

Maurice leaves us then- he’s been an exceptional host, and we’ve learned a lot from his little jaunt. He still has a couple of hours before he reaches home.

We then start the journey on a zig zag pattern of small roads to Berck. We need to avoid going all the way out to the coast every time a beach resort comes up, like Mahon sur Mer for example, as this would add kilometres to our day. Komoot and Ann’s interpretation works wonders, but it is a hot 30 deg. afternoon and Berck sur Mer never seems to get any closer.

Lunch in a playground, too hot for children to enjoy, but we find a shady corner.

Finally, late in the afternoon, we reach our goal for the day. The first campground we try is complet with no special consideration for cyclists. At the next we go to, the reception has gone home for the day, so we use our initiative and find a reasonable site and get out tent in working order before binging on tuna, tomatoes and baguette. We want a swim, but there’s a catch- we need the combination for the gate to La plage. We settle for a cold wash as a token is needed to get any water from the shower.
It’s been a great day though and we’re happy to have canvas, metaphorically, over our heads.

Today's ride: 68 km (42 miles)
Total: 1,501 km (932 miles)

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