June 5, 2018
Salin-de-Giraud to Aigues-Mortes
Dig those Digues- Bikes on Dikes and a swim in the Mediterranean.
5th June Tuesday 67kms
Salin-de-Giraud to Aigues-Mortes
Dig those Digues- Bikes on Dikes and a swim in the Mediterranean.
From the semi barren landscape of our newly created campground we head for the digues. These are the dikes which run across the Camargue National Park. For cycling, their surface is a little dodgy at the start (dodging potholes and ruts) but it soon improves to a firm, if unsealed track.
The mozzies are few but there is plentiful bird life, the pink flamingos being perhaps the most spectacular. They are an odd looking bird - ungainly yet graceful at the same time, poking their heads under the surface of the water for whatever takes their fancy. Apparently they are long livers- 50 years, and they don’t reach the pink of condition until 5 years.
The quiet of the area is striking especially after days filled with traffic noise. Small birds flit about and the horizon stretches away forever. In addition, I see two snakes, one alive and one dead, and an animal we initially thought was a cat, casually standing in the middle of the track, but on closer inspection turns out to be a large stoat.
At the halfway point on the route, stands the Phare de la Gacholle which has shone out since the early 19th century. From this point a considerable number of cycling day trippers, out from Saintes Maries dela Mer, begin approaching us. Shouldn’t they have been at work?
There are German, French and Dutch grey nomads in abundance in their camper vans as well as the odd Brit, soaking up the sun.
Soaking is next on our agenda, as we dive into the waters of the Mediterranean once we reach the coast proper. The area caters for tourists in vast numbers with a 15km stretch of beaches and a massive number of eateries providing paella, bouillabaisse and every other fishy dish possible. The towns look reasonably tasteful in appearance, though, with less of the garishness of some Riviera beach spots.
We have allowed ourselves luxury at a moderate prix by staying in the 'Cœur of the Ramparts' of Aigues-Mortes, a walled town a little like Carcassonne.
The small unit at ground level is parfait in every way with a kitchen, microwave and a bed twice the width of our tent! Joachim immediately recognises us and greets us as we came down his small rue. Are we so obvious? Having left behind his life in Paris, he tells us that he never misses the hurley burley of his former world and loves this, the quieter area of his childhood.
Today's ride: 67 km (42 miles)
Total: 673 km (418 miles)
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