Namur to Waulsort

August 7, 2018 to August 8, 2018

Chilling in Namur and a cool day on the Meuse.

August 7 Tuesday and August 8 Wednesday 44kms

Namur to Waulsort

Chilling in Namur and a cool day on the Meuse.

Tuesday: With 36 degree heat predicted, we decide that a rest day is sensible. This we do, catching up on minor tasks like washing, reading and planning ahead. So nice to sit in the relative cool of what was once a worker’s cottage for an 18th century mansion and relax with a book....well, a Kindle.

Namur, early morning. Another scorcher on the way.

The beautifully shady road to our Warmshowers accommodation.

After planning the evening meal, we run the gauntlet of fire to the local Carrefour in the afternoon. Steak and a Greek salad with new potatoes seem an easy option considering what is available. I also select a range of Belgium beer- a little difficult to know exactly what brew was in the bottles but they turn out to be an interesting mix. As does the meal.

Again it’s wonderful to be able to discuss aspects of a country’s culture and politics with those who know and have their own perspectives. Our hosts, Laurie and Basile have also cycled the South Island of NZ and share those experiences too.

Wednesday: The thunderstorm overnight introduces a cooler day, and so after warm farewells we head down to the Sambre canal and follow it into Namur, under the shadow of the enormous fortress, and on to its confluence with the Meuse.

From here, the Ardennes influence begins, with trees and greenery growing down to the water’s edge. Across the river we can see large faux Château style buildings sited looking over green swards of lawn, and down onto the river. The scenery is quite a contrast to other river routes - wilder and more closely confined by tree clad hills on both banks.

Profondeville- quarry scars hard to hide.

Pleasantly relaxed riding on this path as it bypasses small villages along the water.

The path is easy and generally well paved and soon Dinant appears around a bend. A dramatic vista, the town is obviously a tourist attraction with a number of cruise boats operating up and down the river, a funicular taking passengers up the steep sided rock for views and the 15th century cathedral.

The historical records in the city reveal details of the massacres of 670 Belgian citizens by the conquering German army in 1914. Reasons for this draconian action seems to have been a suspicion of fifth column resistance and rebellion on the part of citizens. A surprisingly large number were executed and they seem to be well remembered today. I have also read Antony Beevor’s account of the ‘Battle of the Bulge’, describing the attempt to withstand the German offensive during the extreme cold of 1944’s winter.

Collégiale Notre Dame de Dinant- 13th-century Gothic cathedral.

The route out of Dinant is easy and continues picturesque along the Meuse with crowded cruise boats and long barges, with names like ‘ Kontiki ‘ and ‘Freedom’. They create an impressive bow wave as they cut their way through the green water. Bad tempered geese hover around the edge of the path and I warn Ann not to hesitate after her bad swan experience near Bristol.

Our cycle path disappears and we take to the road.

Eventually the dedicated path disappears and merges with the road, though there is very little traffic. We stop for the night at a bnb- ‘Helena’, in Waulsort, a town whose heyday seems to have been a century ago. This could also be said for aspects of the bnb, though it is clean and functional.

Bnb ‘Helena’ on the left. We parked our bikes on the end of the veranda.

Waulsort has a great array of impressive houses along the water.

Today's ride: 44 km (27 miles)
Total: 2,978 km (1,849 miles)

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