August 15, 2018 to August 16, 2018
Exploring Strasbourg
Strasbourg- the buildings, the Cathedral, the river, the music.
August 15 Wednesday; August 16 Thursday
Exploring Strasbourg
Strasbourg- looks German, feels French: her buildings, her Cathedral, her river, her music.
Wednesday: Oh the luxury of a room in a beautiful city where we can make coffee and dine on pain au raisin and baguettes from the local Boulangerie!
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A short walk takes us to the Rhine, water reasonably clear so that fish are visible. There are other tourists about but mainly European from the array of languages drifting on the air. The buildings of Petite France had been described by a friend as ‘eye candy’ and certainly they are, but in a genuinely historical way. Tiled roofs, stepped gables and half timbered buildings border the water and close in as we walk the narrow cobblestone streets to the cathedral.
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While we have enjoyed pedaling, the relief of taking a semi aimless jaunt through an as yet unknown city is invigorating, despite the increasing heat. It’s a the feast of the Assumption, but Ann is on to it and has found a supermarket and boulangerie that are open and have the makings of lunch - and dinner!
There is also a parade in traditional Alsace costume in front of the cathedral, that includes horses and riders as well.
The cathedral itself is magnificent in its size, it’s red stone and the height of its spire. The carved figures around the exterior still maintain clear detail despite the effects of time and atmosphere.
There is a mass being celebrated so we repair to the Musee de Beaux Arts close by. It is hot inside but they have a collection with enough of the old masters - El Greco, Rosetta, Giotto to excite our interest.
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Later following a wait and an ice cream in the shade by the river, we go to the 6pm mass in the cathedral. It’s simple, yet in those surroundings, the stained glass windows, the high vaulted ceiling and the curve of the altar surround, there’s an element of theatre too. The bearded priest leading the singing has a magnificent stentorian voice and can hold a note well. His rendition of the Latin verses recalls years past. A family with grandmother and two slightly rascally teenage daughters, sits in front of us, the girls occasionally mugging at grandmama’s devotion. They enjoy the petit paix though. We could be in any city in the world.
Thursday: Miss the Astrological Clock by 3 minutes! (We had not got the “buy on the day”tickets). But make it by tram to the Lieu Europe for the Klimt exhibition, which is more of a exposition of his life and works.
We view the displays related to the European Parliament and its history and successes. A little propagandist perhaps but interesting historically. Also thought provoking in the light of Brexit- what are the Brits going to miss? Not the subsidies, I suspect.
In the evening we attend a free Early Music concert in the Eglise Madeleine sung by Tracunum- Gregorian and some Hildegard. Despite the heat - beautiful.
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Walking back to our ‘home’ in the warm night, it’s easy to see how the cafes, the restaurants, the quirky shops and the quais along the river, where people sit dangling their feet in the water, make this a beautiful and liveable city.
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