July 5, 2018
Chepstow to Ross on Wye
Up and over the Wye Valley. Minor road with not so minor traffic.
July 5 Thursday 51kms
Chepstow to Ross on Wye
Up and over the Wye Valley. Minor road with not so minor traffic.
Leave The Coach and Horses and take our chosen route to Ross on Wye. This starts with a long and high, though reasonably gradual climb up over the Wye Valley. Viewed as we left town, Chepstow Castle looks very dramatic as it sits out above the river. The oldest post Roman fortification in Britain, it has seen action in the 15th century and also in the course of the English Civil War, when it was besieged and captured by Cromwell’s forces.
Our route takes us down and alongside the Wye eventually, and though I had wanted to see Tintern Abbey again, because it was on the other side of the river, we decide against the 6 mile digression. I shall have to content myself with rereading Wordsworth and perhaps Tennyson who was also inspired to write about the beautiful ruin.
An alternative activity in the form of a paddle in the river is equally restorative. The water is clear and deep enough for the canoeing parties attempting to paddle on the river in unison.
Reluctantly leaving this refreshing oasis we complete the last few kilometres to Ross on Wye, a pretty town with a centre that has its fair share of half timbered buildings and stone monuments.
Because it is one of the earliest towns to offer boat trips up the Wye, for viewing of castles and the kinds of precipitous land forms we had just been cycling over, it promotes itself as the birthplace of British tourism.
After a brief viewing of the town and a sighting of the Plague Cross, commemorating the dead of the great plague, we apply for temporary residence of the local campground. This proves to be a camp where rules were many and inscribed on small plaques affixed to most free space. ‘Don’t waste water’ seems reasonable but ‘Don’t swing on the shower curtains,’ a little odd.
Having got our Marmot sorted, we are lying in the shade reading when a woman from a neighbouring caravan approaches with 2 cold bottles of lager and a pork pie. She has watched us cycle in and thinks we need reviving. She’s not wrong. Not only is she kind enough to do this once, but an hour or so later she brings out 2 more bottles and more food! An angel of mercy. We thank her profusely and also thank our luck that we have managed to get the tent up before the two lagers. It wouldn’t have happened afterwards.
Today's ride: 51 km (32 miles)
Total: 2,144 km (1,331 miles)
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