June 3, 2018
Avignon to Arles
Historical re-enactments, paddy fields and Van Gogh country.
June 3 Sunday
Avignon to Arles 45kms
Late getaway: too long over coffee and internet.
Reasonable route and signage. One section on old railway where the locals were out en famille. Past orchards and vines. An old cherry tree and some windfall apricots provides a much needed sugar hit.
Our lunch stop overlooks a 2CV and other ‘Golden Oldies’, rally.
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The signage runs out at Beaucaire. This is a large town with ancient walls and metal mooring rings from a time when the river was closer. A fete du chante is attracting crowds and contestants in national dress. The girls have lace shawls and a coif of lace on the head. Men wear waistcoat and hat. They are heading to the the Arena . You know you are heading south when the bull fighting posters appear.
Outside the walls there are boys playing soccer, families picnicking, men in bars. We circuit the town to the right, along a canal and do find a cycle sign ( not our Via one ) but it is in the right direction, so off we go past a 14th century arch. We decide there are towns to see and appreciate beyond the tourist traps. This one, we find later, supplied the stone for Aigues Mort ( their alluvial soil lacking rock).
Across country we go on small lanes. Vines and rice fields. Lots of green .
Confusion at one intersection is remedied by a German couple with GPS, the only cyclists we’ve seen this afternoon. We keep them in sight and are soon in the outskirts of Arles in a concrete underpass that is lavishly graffitied.
Again the Office of Tourism provides the necessary camping directions. City camping is far from full but we are directed to site 73. We decide 70 is more comfortable and hope CCTV camera will not betray us. Miles to Le sanitaire, how do they manage in high season?
Just as we start our tomato, cucumber and onion salad with local saucisson, the grey clouds let loose. We decamp to inside the tent. Later, a beer at the bar, phones charging on their multiplug, we are content.
Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 558 km (347 miles)
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