Trento to Lago Garda.

August 11, 2016 to August 12, 2016

From Trento we climb a hill and discover the magnificent Lago Garda.

August 11 Thursday 50kms

August 12 Friday

Trento to Lago Garda.

From Trento we climb a hill and discover the magnificent Lago Garda.

Finding the river route again from the youth hostel is easy and we have soon joined a number of speedy day trippers heading to lake Garda. Trento deserved more time, of course, as it's a city of great historical significance. We enjoyed walking in the large piazza, viewing the fountains, towers and archways, the evening before. The pretty Church of San Lorenzo has also survived war and flood to retain an affectionate place in locals’ hearts.

More recent history related to WW1 have come to light as bodies and remnants of the difficult fighting in the mountains between the Italians and the Austro-Hungarians is revealed as the glaciers melt. Ironically, though Italy won a vast area of territory, the original culture and language has persisted.

The MUSE - Museo delle Scienze, the Science Museum designed by Renzo Piano.

The morning's ride is a little breezy as we enter a tight gorge and the began climbing the 'Pass Giovanni' (270metres).

At the summit of the climb over to Garda.

Car and truck traffic is heavy and slow but the separate cycle route is speedy and delivered us safely over the top and down the other side in minutes. Nothing has quite prepared us for the sight of Garda in all its glory. The transition from the ordinary village on the approach, to a sight which astonishes all the senses at the top of the hill is remarkable. Firstly there is the colour of the deep blue lake and the terracotta of the roof tiles in the distance below. Then there was the enormity of the white and green of the vegetation covered volcanic cliffs, scarred in places by roads and paths, which drop vertically into the lake. Dropping down on the steep cycle road allows easy photo taking but capturing the height and overpowering sense of those cliffs is well nigh impossible on camera.

Lago Garda, looking sensational in the afternoon sun.

Taking care on the steep descent down to the lake.

The first town, Tombole is crowded but easy enough to cycle through. Swimming spots on the lake front are plentiful and very tempting. Somehow this lake has avoided the tackiness so often associated with Italian tourist areas and despite the number of holiday makers it never feels oppressive. Having said that, I would have to admit that our camping spot at Riva del Garda makes the expression cheek by jowl something of an understatement.

Swimming is beautiful in the deep clear water.

Tolerance required and received from both neighbours.

However it is only 2 nights and we have very friendly (almost intimate) Munich neighbours on both sides. One takes his young daughter, who looks about 7 or 8 up the hills around the lake mountain bike riding. We, on the other hand, make use of our time swimming in the beautiful blue waters and lying about reading.

Ann manages to attend to her coiffure and we also visit Coop supermarket for supplies- an experience that is almost overpowering since the amount of choice almost leaves one gasping. How many types of forcaccio bread is too much? The frustration of knowing you'd like to try the lot, but also knowing it's an impossibility. Then there's the cheese, the dried meat, the olives..... Being vegetarian might help ease the frustration and being vegan....

Finding a spot for swimming in the lake is easy and the lakeside areas are pleasantly grassed and treed. Out on the pontoons the young Italian males perform their noisy pushing rituals and there always seemed to be one daring girl amongst them. Elsewhere among the sun worshippers, it is clear what all that ice cream and Coop forcaccio have done. Where have all those skinny Italians gone?

Our camp ground is patrolled by the commandant 'Al Capitano' as we call him. He is a friendly, if restless, soul who engages the neighbouring Germans in conversation, renders snatches of Italian songs and what I think are humorous anecdotes. Since his Italian is heavily laden with German and his delivery is fairly measured, one gets the gist. His grasp of English is small and so conversations with us are mainly limited to greetings.

El Capitano - he serenaded his captive audience at 11:00pm with traditional Italian, and other, songs.

The camp communal area is taken over by us for cooking eating and wifi-ing. Wonderful since there is little other space. And so the time passes quickly and even Al Capitano's warbling musical offerings at 11:00 at night are not enough to spoil our stay.

Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 2,965 km (1,841 miles)

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