July 19, 2016
Stein am Rhein to Radolfzell.
We Swim in the Rhine and reach Bodensee
July 19 Tuesday 25kms
Stein am Rhein to Radolfzell.
We Swim in the Rhine and reach Bodensee.
Start the day with a 7:30 swim and a hearty breakfast of eggs, tomatoes and wurst. And coffee with fresh milk! The view from our campsite is impressive, with the lake ( Bodensee) in the distance and a castle across the valley.
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There’s a brief delay fixing Ann’s brake cable, then our campground being atop a steep climb, it is with great pleasure that we sail down to find the trail again. The day is a scorcher and pretty soon the cooling effects of the pool wear off. It’s all fairly up and down, taking us through small, pretty villages with half timbered buildings and churches with bulbous steeple tops. One has a memorial to local lads killed in WW2 in places as far apart as North Africa and Kursk. Did they ever wonder what it was all about, I found myself thinking.
All along the Rhine we cycle past great swimming spots in the river and swimmers enjoying the cool deep green waters which are so clear it’s possible to see the stony botttom. Eventually we stop for lunch and joined local families for a dip at one of the areas set up – 1Eu 50c charge. The shower on the bank is like a bucket of iced water – but refreshing.
Finally back on the trail, we surmount a hill, and there she is glistening in the sun- Bodensee! Lake Konstanz. Even a sail boat out on the blue waters.
This lake has an interesting history, being the site of a number of prehistoric settlements and in recent times, because it borders both Germany and Switzerland, it was the goal for many escapees from Nazi Germany. Occasionally I am reminded of Steve McQueen and his motorcyle exploits in the Great Escape movie- I understand why he often looked confused about just where the border actually was- we have been wandering in and out of both countries for days.
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Our route now takes us along the edge of the Rhine to where it flows out of the lake. Along the way, we chomp into the monster cherries on sale and also buy some plums.
Finally the beginning of the lake at Radolfzell- here after a bit of a frustrating search we find a camping ground. PMI- Plusses were – on the lake so good for swimming, clean toiletten with paper and a pleasant restaurant. Minuses were – a little crowded, though not cheek by jowl. Interesting – well everything really – especially the gear other cyclists use- trailers are very popular for hauling gear, children and animals. Also smoking- I find myself wondering if anything is done to try to discourage the uptake – it’s so prevalant. Finally, my preconceptions about the route are that it is much more rural- in fact most times it’s open farming country and agricultural smells- some pretty overpowering with the occasional church signalling a distant village.
In the evening we decide to dine at the campground cafe and eat well - schnitzel, chips and salad. And two large lagers.
Despite the busyness of the campground we tether our bikes to a nearby tree and sleep overtakes us quickly.
Today's ride: 25 km (16 miles)
Total: 1,711 km (1,063 miles)
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