August 16, 2016
Mantua to Casalmaggiore
Slow day on the Po and a bridge that leaves us up in the air.
August 16 Tuesday 53kms
Mantua to Casalmaggiore
Slow day on the Po and a bridge that leaves us up in the air.
It’s a morning of waiting… First for the signore to come and collect keys, then at Decathlon, in Cortatone, for a new set of tyres for Ann’s bike. But we get ourselves to Buscoldo on minor roads by midday, in time to buy a couple of gigantic nectarines as the market closes.
These are eaten in the shade of the local church before we find the trail proper. It is rough in parts and mostly away from the river. At Scorzardo where the Oglio meets the Po, we get a glimpse of a river. It is here we are to cross the Oglio to reach the Po. There is a pontoon bridge, but both ends are at cambered at a 45 degree angle and there is red tape everywhere. No choice but to continue the Oglio route and catch up later.
We cycle on a high embankment passing large farms with farm houses and utilities enclosed in walled compounds. Quite a few abandoned farm buildings, many now full of hay. The heat and lack of shade is a challenge. We ride into Grazzuolo as if entering a Wild West movie set. The straight street, the shuttered windows and no one to be seen except two hombres on bikes! No saloon, but the outdoor Lido does beer, and has shade. The woman at the bar has an ironic smile but kindly fills my water bottle with chilled acqua frizzante.
We start again on road then find a cycle track following a canal. When it ends with no further signage, we continue by road to Sabbioneta. This ” model town” designed by 16th century Vespasiano Gonzaga, has retained its octagonal bricked defensive walls and palaces and churches have been restored. Vespasiano was a brutish chap; he locked his first wife up with the dead body of her executed, supposed lover, and offered her poison. We find his self designed mausoleum in the first church we enter. Its black marble and size clash with the otherwise gentle ambience of the church, with its cupola and women’s gallery under the dome.
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Gelato is required before the last stage to Casalmaggiore. Road traffic is not too bad, but trucks go at speed. Notice the lines of them outside the Pommodoro factory.
Casalmaggiore has an enormous main piazza which we pass through on the way to the Albergo Delle Industrie is through the town and back into the industrial outskirts. We are to find it is a purple Jewel in the concrete that surrounds it.
We are welcomed and shown to our room with its purple decor. Our host explains about dinner in rapid Italian. It’s hot, we’re tired so we say ‘Si’.
We are pleased we did. Our meal of homemade forcaccio, gnocchi in ragu and grilled pork steaks with rosemary potatoes and a slightly fiery sauce- all exquisitely presented. Chef Dominico delivers the main himself and his wife Stephania is very attentive. Carrot cake with coffee is Stephania’s wonderful confectionery creation as a finale.
Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 3,100 km (1,925 miles)
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