August 4, 2016 to August 5, 2016
Kundl to Innsbruck
We join road, river, rail, in the race to Innsbruck.
August 4 Thursday
August 5 Friday
61kms
Kundl to Innsbruck.
We join road, river, rail, in the race to Innsbruck.
What a beautiful old house. Doors, stairs, and furniture are crafted from oak. Herr Brambock is proud to tell us the house is 700 years old, and that Mozart and his Vater stopped there for a meal (essen) in 1771 en route to or from Verona. His own Mother has been 60 years in the house and we understood from his words and mime, that his Father had died in the war, ( in Russia?) so she must have managed alone.
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In comfortable modern attire and with specialist cycling equipment, we load up our bikes with thoughts of the journeys made in former times. A puncture brings us back to the present, and the chief mechanic does a splendid repair.
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Out of Kundl, past the Sandoz factory, to the river again. Industry is prominent all along the valley: timber, chemical, hydropower, recycling, logistics and rail. Houses with gardens predominantly, but more apartments and multi storey flats than we’ve seen before. No space wasted. Cabbages, leeks, carrots and turnips are in neat rows. The path is busy with Lycra cyclists, PLUs, solo riders, skaters, walkers and runners, and elderly types on those bikes we remember from childhood, upright, with the headlamp and chainguard. And above it all, like painted scenery are the mountains!
Our picnic spot is under a tree on the deck chairs provided outside the Schwaz rail station. People come and go, and some collect their bikes which are stored in a special purpose shed. We envy the ease with which cycling for all ages is undertaken here. All along the way are areas to park and use the trails, and here we see the convenience of cycling to the station and catching the train.
Crystal clear water gushes from the trinkwasser fountain at Watten. Swarovski crystal comes from this area. We are satisfied with water. Then in to Innsbruck through leafy parks. Before “Zentrum ” there is a ‘Jugendherberge’ hostel sign, and with a solid rain day forecast for Friday, bike brakes to replace, and a chance to look about this charming city, we opt for a room. The hostel is right on the river which is rushing noisily by, the manager is very pleasant and helpful and our room light and airy.
Later we cycle into the city to see the sights and end up eating a lively meal- Ann, dahl, me - steamed dumplings, at a Nepali restaurant. We find the old city, along with many other tourists, in the golden evening air.
Often, when cycle touring, one is unaware of the many tourists in a country, until arriving in a major centre.
Back at the hostel beside a river moving at Aare pace, the manager gives us a free token for washing.
Friday: A rainy day in Innsbruck to catch up on history and art.
Cloud and rain hide the peaks this morning. Ann’s bike goes in for brake replacement, then we find tourist information and a map of northern Italy. We will need some perspective in planning our route to the Ligurian coast.
The Ferdinaneum provides a dry haven, and a variety of exhibits. We start with the archaeological section and find fascinating Bronze Age artefacts like brooches with sprung securing pins, and finely made animals. All come from the Inn valley and the Tyrol mountains.
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We brush up on Austrian history in the portrait gallery, with Maximillian and his two wives. Martin Luther is portrayed on his death bed. One man had numerous paintings and lithographs of himself and the commentary suggested he would have loved Facebook.
The “All the Art must go ” exhibition displays the stored treasure that was being readied for rehousing in Sils, so there is a conglomeration of altarpieces, sculpture, painting old and modern, as well as musical instruments.
It feels good to take time to consider the past, to think about where we have been and what events influenced the development of the region we are visiting.
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Today's ride: 61 km (38 miles)
Total: 2,601 km (1,615 miles)
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