July 29, 2016 to July 30, 2016
Deggendorf to Passau
We pass two nights in Passau, swim in the Ilz and enjoy an organ recital in the Dom.
July 29 Friday,
July 30 Saturday 65kms
Deggendorf to Passau
We pass two nights in Passau, swim in the Ilz and enjoy an organ recital in the Dom.
Friday: The path to Passau is a good one: occasional unsealed, not too wet. The Donau is wide, pretty villages marked by bulbous domed churches, appear along both banks, and beyond spreads the green of the forrest. We buy lunch supplies at Winzer and stop where we have view of boats and river.
Our arrival at the Passau Rathaus tourist information is accompanied by the carrillion bells which play twice daily. The ochre coloured building is illustrated with historic characters and the bell tower and clock rise at one end. Having come in to this attractive old city by the Donau, we are pleased to find our camping spot on another of the three rivers that meet in Passau. We ride through the tunnel under the hill that supports the castle, to find the Ilz. It’s colour is peaty brown but the water is clean, with a flow that makes our cooling swim more exciting.
We eat at the kayak club restaurant and chat to a local woman about world politics and things German. She recommends the Kaiserman (Austrian pancake) desert but we have already enjoyed an enormous portion of schnitzel.
A camping neighbour has a trolley covered with flags and a map of his journeys. Most of Scandinavia and Europe’ s coastline is covered, and he has the look of a Rip Van Winkle- long beard and slightly disoriented aspect.
Saturday:
We enjoy Passau’s spectacular setting as we cycle the hilly cobbled streets. We speed past slowed weekend traffic, up past the Cathedral , over to the Inn and the confluence with the Donau.
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Midday sees us in St Stephens Cathedral for the famous organ concert. We sit in Baroque splendour and are impressed by the ability of the organist who manages the 233 registers and 1,794 pipes of the largest cathedral organ in Europe. The music and surroundings are a perfect match.
From the city heat, we return to our camp on the valley in time to swim and prepare dinner before the thunderstorm arrives. It is not as thunderous as the fireworks , at the end of a local festival, which wake us in the dark that night.
Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 2,274 km (1,412 miles)
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