August 27, 2019
Tuesday 27th August Brna to Veltrusy 88 kilometres. Flat whites, ferries and flying bats.
August 27 Tuesday. 88Kms. Brna to Veltrusy 88 kilometres. Flat whites, ferries and flying bats.
The trains are still roaring so it’s an early getaway - we leave the family next to us sleeping under their fly sheet- and there are no services along the route, which is rough in parts and slows us down. The river still reflects the trees in their early morning splendour. The route narrows at Porta Bohemia where there’s high rock on one side, then the river bends and the land opens out.
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Litomerice stands a little higher above the river but offers hope of coffee and replenishment. And so it comes to pass. The town has a large open square bordered by several buildings designed between 1717 and 1729, by an Italian architect Octavio Broggio whose fondness for the baroque is clearly evident. Going for baroque about sums it up. On the corner of the square a cafe with shaded tables provides us with a most acceptable flat white and a couple of pastries. Beware- Some of these tend to be surreptitiously loaded with a dollop of jam hidden in the middle.
We have a look through the extremely baroque All Saints church. Two friendly young women are positioned behind a desk at the church entrance and look as though they’ve been there all morning. They provide us with a guide in English and we explore.
Back on the trail we continue along the river which has now become the Vltava and whose denotation has changed to ‘7’ without warning, so at Horin, when the trail has a diversion, we’re suspicious. However Ann checks our map and it all adds up. (Bless the French couple who gave us that map book- it’s saved us so many times.)
Following Horin we find the ferry which is to take us across the river from Luzec to Bukol. While we wait beside the river, an enquiring male voice calls down from an upstairs window. His ferry consists of a large rowing boat, attached to a cable, and at first promises to be awkward, but the ferry man has done this many times before and we are quickly on board with no need to remove panniers or bags at all. We are standing on the other bank before we know it.
We pass a complex with a 2 kilometre straight rowing course where the world championships were once held. Then a 3km tree lined road that leads to Veltrusy palace. Family groups are out in the pleasant warmth.
Evening is upon us and several pensions look enticing, but Ann has a campground in her sights. On finding it we realise it is now a non campground with only a few woodeñ huts. Should we go back or push on? After half an hour of unsuccessful hunting for accommodation of some sort, we find the kayak club beside the river which has a few tents already set up, a toilet block and hot showers. Because a couple of the managers have visited New Zealand they are sympathetic to our situation and 100 Korunas (4 euros) seals the deal.
As the sun sets I see sizeable bats swooping and darting above the river. When the bats appear - time for bed!
Today's ride: 88 km (55 miles)
Total: 1,404 km (872 miles)
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