August 20, 2019
Tuesday 20th August Cut hair, bike repair, Hartenfels lair.
Ah the hotel breakfast! All jokes about the best of the wurst aside we make the most of what is on offer
Then over the cobbles to Markt. The trials of finding one’s way in a new town seem trivial after food, shower, and a good sleep, so we find ‘Bikes and More’ with ease. New bike pads for Ann and a cable to replace a frayed one on Michael’s bike.
Then on to discover this Renaissance gem of a town. Hartenfels palace was built in Renaissance times by the Elector, Johan Frederick. He was a firm supporter of Martin Luther, who advised him on the design of the chapel, and consecrated it some months before he died.
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Cranach’s work also features in the decoration.
We spend time in the exhibits of weaponry, history of the castle, and the life of John the Magnanimous and his wife Sibylle of Cleves. Language barriers limit our understanding the display of documents regarding the prisoners kept in Torgau by the German military. Twenty thousand of them were executed in the gravel pits outside the town.
Apples and a pastry are required after that, and we sit outside the apotheke shop where US soldiers painted an American flag on a white sheet, before heading to the bridges to shake hands with the Soviets.
Also nearby is a haircut for Michael. Word has got out that we are in town. The young hairdresser had heard about the NZers from the bike shop man. Almost famous!
Cheerfully we seek out Marian Kirke, to find the organist practising energetically. Splendid sound from a modern pipe organ, and the church is alight with it.
Mrs Luther is buried here.
On the way back to base we notice Intersport and ask the Radfahr man if he can fit mudguards to Ann’s bike in the 45 mins before closing. (Late realisation that the guards were still on the Merida at home). It’s a push, but job done.
Shoppers out there may know that Villeroy and Boch have a factory outlet here. Weight concious cyclists are unlikely seek it out, but it is tempting....
Our picnic tea includes Kartofel salat and a dry Rheinhessen. Satisfying day off.
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