0717 - Into the Wilderness - Rejuvenation? Or Last Hurrah?

July 17, 2022

0717 - Into the Wilderness

Wilderness Gateway, that is

HOT, TIRED, AND READY TO BE DONE for the day, I pulled into the Wilderness Gateway USFS campground just about right at 1400. It had been 50 miles of riding right next to a rushing mountain river: first the Middle Fork of the Clearwater and later (upstream) the Lochsa once I passed the confluence where it and the Selway merge.

This is where the Lochsa (left) and Selway (right) rivers merge to create the Clearwater (foreground).

Eight hours earlier I had bid farewell to the Kooskia City Park, where I and one other cyclist had spent the previous night.

Savvy travelers pitch their tent under the pavilion, to keep out of reach of the automated sprinklers, which come on about 11:30 every evening and run for half an hour.

This was one of two options for getting clean in the park. The other was to take a dip in the stream that flows along the edge of the park. I don't know about the water play area but the stream was lovely and very refreshing.

Mary Ann, a retired physician from Minneapolis, is riding the Lewis and Clark Trail route from Adventure Cycling. It and the TransAm that I'm following run together between Kooskia and Missoula.

Mary Ann is a true adventurer. Last year she rode the Northern Tier. This year it's Lewis and Clark.

Why exactly did we need Lewis and Clark, anyhow? All you gotta do is follow U.S. 12. Even AAA coulda told us *that*.

So, for a couple days at least, I've got a camp companion, if not company on the road. (She's not only faster than me but generally leaves before me.)

We agreed that today's route may be the prettiest either of us has ever followed. There's the ever-present river to our right, evergreen-clad slopes to our left, a well-paved and low traffic road to ride, and a faultless blue sky above. For several early hours it was shaded and cool to boot.

Quiet, shaded road with the babbling rushing river and a light breeze in the trees to make music. What could be better?

It goes on this way for miles. Like 90 miles.

I covered only about 50 today. The rest can wait for tomorrow.

The peaceful setting afforded plenty of time to reflect on the sad history of the Nez Perce, for whom this area was once home. In 1877 they were ordered off their ancestral lands by the U.S. government, which sent the military in as enforcers. As one might expect in such a situation, some of the Nez Perce objected and things escalated. The treatment they received, as with so many other Native nations before and after them, was absolutely despicable and disgusting; it and slavery are two lasting stains on the nation.

Westbound Riders

Again today I met an irregular stream of riders headed in the opposite direction to me. Unlike some other days, where I've made a point of stopping to converse at least briefly, today I really only spoke with one.

Unnamed rider headed west, on a route at least partly of her own devising (like mine).

She's headed to Bend and wanted to know about the pavement conditions on White Bird Grade. Having covered the subject road the day before, I felt qualified to tell her it is paved and quite rideable. We chatted a bit then headed off in opposite directions.

Later in the day, as I was taking a rest break (oh alright, it was a nap), another westbounder stopped to check that I was okay. I assured him I was, and he was on his way. I hadn't really planned a nap but the warm sun had heated the dry pine needles that blanketed the side road turnoff where I paused to transfer water from some of my bottles into my Camelbak. The shade, quiet, and delicate aroma of warm pine needles (they give off the most pleasant scent, quite unlike fresh green pine) was a soporific and soon I was nodding then stretched out and dozing. Call me Rip van Winkle.

Finally arriving at the Wilderness Gateway campground, I turned in and found Mary Ann had been scouting. The "A" loop of campsites is closed, but she had gone in search of water and found a spigot there. Having studied the campground layout when I arrived, I was pretty certain there were water spigots distributed on the B, C, and D loops. She wanted a campsite right on Boulder Creek, similar to what we'd had in Kooskia the evening before. It's certainly soothing to have the river noise as a white noise background.

I found a site immediately adjacent to a spigot and claimed it- the Reserved sign indicated that the next occupant would not arrive until the following day. It was a nice site, with a little hidey-hole where I could tuck the tent away and have complete privacy. Not that there was much concern on that score: the campground was far from full and the "neighbors" pretty much remained invisible.

Another river bathing experience was buttressed later on with an at-the-campsite sponge bath while dinner (freeze-dried backpacker meal) was steeping. Once that was eaten and the dish (yes singular: only the spoon needs attention) was washed, I called it an early night and turned in.

This empty bird's nest intrigued me because it was in an easily-spotted, obvious location just about at eye level. I found that quite odd.

This pretty yellow cluster of blossoms adorned a nearby bush.

Berries of some sort- not quite ripe yet, though.

I had a curious would-be dinner companion, who all but climbed on the table to see what there was for him to eat.

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Consecutive days without a tire inflation issue: 5.

Today's ride: 52 miles (84 km)
Total: 602 miles (969 km)

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Gregory GarceauYour tour is going great so far. I have to admit, after seeing your training ride difficulties, I was a little worried for you. Now you seem to be a resilient bike riding, tent-camping, hill-climbing, sponge-bathing, weather-resisting, master of cycle tourism. You've got this!
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2 years ago

Keith AdamsTo Gregory GarceauThanks Greg! So far so good. I think the toughest week of the trip is about to land on me. If I can make it through that, and over Chief Joseph Pass, I'll have hope of completing the trip. But this coming week will tell the tale, I think.
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2 years ago